During my inspection, I was told the thruhull on my boat WAS (and is) below the water line and needed a SeaCock.
I am looking at putting in a brass one, but my boat is "cocooned up" for the winter,
I am wondering what size a stock one is (1"?)
My plan is to seacock the thruhull and put a valve on the motor well drain so I can seal up all the water entry points in case of emergency..etc.
Also.. has anyone modified the sink drain to use a pump and its on above waterline thruhull?
(comments.. worth it.. not.. use sink for storage instead...etc)
NO with my merc 75HP its in the water.. 100% for sure in the water...
I was thinking of a pump out from the sink to a thruhull way above water line.. sink flows to a holding tank.. (1 gallon etc ) then like a small bilge pump.. will trigger and pump out..
In Canada, its against the law to have a thru hull underwater without a valve (sea cock). Its A Ministry of Transport regulation. I had to agree to fix this prior to insurance picking up the boat (thanks to my survey which my insurance insisted on. )
I did not want to deal with those web based insurance companies.. as I had a friend go that route (for her car) and it took legal action to get any $$.
Total pain.. Long story.. So I am sticking with All State with my boat/car and house
So its a valve connected to the transom... and thru hull ... also they want (strongly suggested.. but not illegal with Ministry of Transport) a valve at the point of entry of water for the drain point in the motor well.
This way .. if a hose falls off.. you can run and shut the valves so your boat will not take on water.
Not expensive.. but my boat is cocooned up.. and I cannot do anything on it.. even measure things..
(Chomping on the bit to get to work rewiring everything.. and tweaking it up)
No mine is 100% below the water line at rest.
I have a 2005 75HP merc.. its heavy, with 2 ppl in the boat its 100% under water and then some.
ANd I agree. for the most part.. fro a trailer sailor.. its probably mostly ok.
But after the survey, and the Ministry requirement, insurance insisted that I install a sea cock/valve etc.
I agree.. the hose is not of great quality, and my sink hose is already spliced.
I also agree.. that a sink pump would be cool.. but.. may be another layer of complexity for nothing, and of little benefit.
(although a sink pump would be cool....)
I will leave that to a "bottom of the list" and only "if the wife complains" project.
We have the drain to sump and pump above waterline option. It was implemented by the very first owners. It used the Rule Shower Drain Rule-98A-12-Volt-Multi-Port. I had to repair it as the float switch wasn't reliable after 12 years. While it works it is a bit precarious - if for any reason the pump doesn't operate e.g. float switch failure, no battery power, etc the box can overflow. The box top is not sealed - and it doesn't totally empty - so it's a source of dampness too. Way off in the future we will replace with a bladder (sealed) and a diaphragm pump so that when we are trailering and use the boat as a camper we can retain the grey water until an appropriate dumping station.
We also have two bilge pumps that each have their own above waterline thru hulls (as required in Canada for a boat you sleep in).
The factory drain is still used for the motor well. We carry a spare drain plug that will fit the thruhull from outside the transom if ever necessary and makes a great sink stopper in the meantime.
Great Ideas..
I was thinking about a drain box that I fabricate out of Fiberglass, with a taper on the bottom, vented and enclosed, but yeah.. it would never be 100% dry.. (got me thinking.. may get musty and gross.. ) Instead of a float I was thinking a solid state field effect switch. (if I go this route I would have to do some planning.. )
Maybe inline pump with no drain box.. straight in from the sink, and out the side.
I will be putting a sea cock on the rear, and I have a Bilge pump to install. .. but wanted 3. One for each side (low profile type) and one under the stairs .
Batteries.. one in original position, one under seat starboard, and to balance things off.. water tank on port side.
Again, cannot wait to unwrap the boat, and start measuring/planning..etc.
A few bungs are a good idea for the thruhull in the back.
My sink drain/motor well thru hull is plastic. So, if you are going to put in a seacock, are you replacing the thru hull? I wouldn't put a seacock on a plastic thru hull, but I'll be glad to go measure it - mine is downstairs.
Edit: re-read your post and see that you are planning on replacing with a brass thru-hull. The threaded portion of the fitting is 1" dia. Hole in transom is probably 1-1/8"
Last edited by Jimmyt on Fri Dec 20, 2019 6:29 pm, edited 3 times in total.
Just be aware that if you use one like Russ has pictured, you must remove that bottom plug, or else the valve is subject to bursting in freezing weather, regardless of the position of the handle.
Hamin' X wrote: ↑Fri Dec 20, 2019 10:44 pm
Just be aware that if you use one like Russ has pictured, you must remove that bottom plug, or else the valve is subject to bursting in freezing weather, regardless of the position of the handle.
~Rich
If I do that Mod I,d use starboard on both sides rather than glassin in wood which is subjust to rot
J
Hamin' X wrote: ↑Fri Dec 20, 2019 10:44 pm
Just be aware that if you use one like Russ has pictured, you must remove that bottom plug, or else the valve is subject to bursting in freezing weather, regardless of the position of the handle.
~Rich
Interesting.
Makes sense. I had a lawn irrigation shutoff valve freeze and burst because the blow out company didn't open one of those and drain it. Froze and cracked. Same principle.
