Dear Friends,
I have dual batteries ready, a battery switch and 5W solar panel, the question is where should I connect the cables from ourboard so that I can charge two batteries during motoring and do not prevent any load to the alternator and any other equipment with all solar panel etc.
Do I need an isolator bw two batteries?
I really appreciate if you guys have any wiring diagram for dual battery installation with solar panel and outboard.
Thank you so much, we are eagerly waiting your replies because my kids are looking my eyes for when we gonna get the boat wet.
Best for all sailors
Erol
Pls Give Some Advice on Dual Battery Connection
What type of switch? On/off? Off/1/2/Both?
What do you want to do? Do you want two indepedent circuits/batteries, or just parallel the batteries?
What loads do you have? If you are wiring your outboard, then I assume it has a starter. Normally, there is no need to isolate your outboard from the battery. It shouldn't be drawing current, except when starting. It may draw current if the alternator dies...
Does the solar panel have a built-in blocking diode? A 5W panel only produces about 1/3 of an amp. So, you likely don't need a charge controller. But, you do need a blocking diode, to keep it from draining the battery at night... It most likely has this, as they are very common... But...
What do you want to do? Do you want two indepedent circuits/batteries, or just parallel the batteries?
What loads do you have? If you are wiring your outboard, then I assume it has a starter. Normally, there is no need to isolate your outboard from the battery. It shouldn't be drawing current, except when starting. It may draw current if the alternator dies...
Does the solar panel have a built-in blocking diode? A 5W panel only produces about 1/3 of an amp. So, you likely don't need a charge controller. But, you do need a blocking diode, to keep it from draining the battery at night... It most likely has this, as they are very common... But...
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kmclemore
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That's where I was going with the charge controller... most good solar controllers have a diode.DLT wrote:Does the solar panel have a built-in blocking diode? A 5W panel only produces about 1/3 of an amp. So, you likely don't need a charge controller. But, you do need a blocking diode, to keep it from draining the battery at night... It most likely has this, as they are very common... But...
Here is the answers to your questions
My 5W solar panel has charger controller.
I have a switch of 1/2/Both.
I do have radio, deep finder, lights and 12DC coleman refrigerator as the electric load.
I have a starter battery and deep cycle battery and I will be using them with my 9.8 outboard which has starter and alternator.
I would like to connect the batteries parallel. My major concern do I need a combiner/isolator bw two batteries.
Thank you very much.
My 5W solar panel has charger controller.
I have a switch of 1/2/Both.
I do have radio, deep finder, lights and 12DC coleman refrigerator as the electric load.
I have a starter battery and deep cycle battery and I will be using them with my 9.8 outboard which has starter and alternator.
I would like to connect the batteries parallel. My major concern do I need a combiner/isolator bw two batteries.
Thank you very much.
Ok, here are some issues to think about. Like I said, that 5W will only produce about 1/3 amp, in direct full sun... It should have a rating sticker on it somewhere that says the max output voltage is ~15v (maybe ~13v). So, 5W divided by 15v is 1/3, which is your amperage... Ok, that's the max... What's more, you'll only get that for ~8 hrs, on a sunny day in the summer, depending on where you live. So, a common assumption is to go with 6 hrs. Which means that you'll get ~ 2 amp-hours out of that solar panel a day. This does simplify a lot of the issues, but it is a decent estimate...
Ok, so we're assuming we'll get ~2ah out of the solar panel. But, the alternator is another source of power. What is it rated at and how often will you be running the engine? Once you add that in, you'll have an idea of how much power you'll be putting into your batteries.
Next, we need to get an idea of how much power you'll be draining from them. The starter is going to be real hard to figure, but it will probably be made up by running the alternator for a brief period. So, we'll just have to make sure there is lots of 'spare' power being produced by the alternator.
You can find out how much your other stuff draws by reading their manuals or looking for markings on them. Add up all the current from your depth finder, lights, and refrigerator and then multiply that by how long you expect to run them. That will give you an estimate of the Amp-hour draw from the batteries...
That's a brief explaination of the math involved in trying to decide what size solar panel you need. You'll find that solar panels are a rather limited source of power, especially where space is at such a premium as it is on a boat. Although, shore power with on-board chargers are a good source of power... If that's not available, wind generators (or regular gas generators) are probably the next best thing...
But, you seem more concerned with just how to wire everything up.
Given what you have, and assuming a desire to keep things simple, here's what I would suggest:
- wire the POS (positive terminal) of the starter/alternator (assuming this is a combined connection) straight to the starter battey. Fusing this link is tricky, since your starter pulls alot of current. Hopefully, your alternator is somehow internally fused. In any case, you may just have to leave this link unfused. This link also needs big wire, big enough to handle that starter...
- wire the POS of the solar panel charge controller straight to the deep cycle battery. This link should be fused.
- wire the "1" position of the switch to one of the batteries. It doesn't matter which one, just as long as you know which is which. But, for further discussion, let's assume "1" goes to the deep cycle battery.
- wire the "2" position of the switch to the other battery.
- wire the common position of the switch to all your other loads. You likely have a power panel that distributes power to all of these. If that's the case, just wire the common to the panel.
- wire all the NEG (negative terminal) together.
- Assuming you have a power panel, I would recommend putting a fuse in the wire that runs from the common position of the switch to the panel.
- If you don't have a power panel with fuses, I would also recommend fusing each branch, each load. This way, a short in one load won't take out everything...
- You might also consider installing fuses between the batteries and the switch. I didn't in my installation, but my switches are located right at my batteries, so this link is real short...
- In any case, fuses ought to be located as close to the batteries, in each link, as possible.
- The next consideration is wire size. There is some discussion of this to be found by searching the posts on this site. The basic idea is, assuming proper fusing, bigger wire is better. For the main runs, such as from the batteries to the switch, I'd just go to harbor freight or cummins tools and buy a big fat jumper cable, cut off the clamps, and install ring terminals...
With this setup, your outboard will charge your starter battery any time it is running, regardless of the switch. Likewise, the solar panel will charge your deep cycle battery regardless of the switch. Assuming the switch has an off position, you can isolate both batteries from the loads. You will, on an extended sail, have the switch in the "1" postion, or whatever you wired to the deep cycle battery. This allows the deep cycle to power all your loads and isolates your starter battery so it will be fresh for starting that outboard when you need it. If you want to charge your deep cycle from your alternator, all you have to do is switch the switch to the "both" position. Keep in mind that this effectively parallels the batteries too. So, if the deep cycle is drained the starter battery will dump ALOT of current into it as they attempt to equalize. The alternator will also be trying to charge both... This is where that BIG jumper cable wire comes in... You also want to be careful here. I'd avoid really running down my deep cycle to avoid this problem... One way of doing that would be to keep the switch in the both position. Just recognize that here your draining both batteries and it is possible to drain them so far that you can't start your outboard. Also, starter batteries don't like the the constant loads for extended periods. For a few hours, this is likely not a big deal. But, for extended sailing, you will need to switch to the "1" postion to isolate your starter battery and then you'll want another way of charging that deep cycle back up...
I actually have two battery banks, two power panels, and two switches on my boat. So, I wired the two switches backwards. I have a switch for each battery and the "1" position on each switch is wired so that battery powers panel #1, and so on... This allows me to completely isolate either battery bank while still powering either panel. Besides, I mounted the switches right at the batteries, so having the switches control the batteries in this manner, just made more sense for my installation...
Ok, so we're assuming we'll get ~2ah out of the solar panel. But, the alternator is another source of power. What is it rated at and how often will you be running the engine? Once you add that in, you'll have an idea of how much power you'll be putting into your batteries.
Next, we need to get an idea of how much power you'll be draining from them. The starter is going to be real hard to figure, but it will probably be made up by running the alternator for a brief period. So, we'll just have to make sure there is lots of 'spare' power being produced by the alternator.
You can find out how much your other stuff draws by reading their manuals or looking for markings on them. Add up all the current from your depth finder, lights, and refrigerator and then multiply that by how long you expect to run them. That will give you an estimate of the Amp-hour draw from the batteries...
That's a brief explaination of the math involved in trying to decide what size solar panel you need. You'll find that solar panels are a rather limited source of power, especially where space is at such a premium as it is on a boat. Although, shore power with on-board chargers are a good source of power... If that's not available, wind generators (or regular gas generators) are probably the next best thing...
But, you seem more concerned with just how to wire everything up.
Given what you have, and assuming a desire to keep things simple, here's what I would suggest:
- wire the POS (positive terminal) of the starter/alternator (assuming this is a combined connection) straight to the starter battey. Fusing this link is tricky, since your starter pulls alot of current. Hopefully, your alternator is somehow internally fused. In any case, you may just have to leave this link unfused. This link also needs big wire, big enough to handle that starter...
- wire the POS of the solar panel charge controller straight to the deep cycle battery. This link should be fused.
- wire the "1" position of the switch to one of the batteries. It doesn't matter which one, just as long as you know which is which. But, for further discussion, let's assume "1" goes to the deep cycle battery.
- wire the "2" position of the switch to the other battery.
- wire the common position of the switch to all your other loads. You likely have a power panel that distributes power to all of these. If that's the case, just wire the common to the panel.
- wire all the NEG (negative terminal) together.
- Assuming you have a power panel, I would recommend putting a fuse in the wire that runs from the common position of the switch to the panel.
- If you don't have a power panel with fuses, I would also recommend fusing each branch, each load. This way, a short in one load won't take out everything...
- You might also consider installing fuses between the batteries and the switch. I didn't in my installation, but my switches are located right at my batteries, so this link is real short...
- In any case, fuses ought to be located as close to the batteries, in each link, as possible.
- The next consideration is wire size. There is some discussion of this to be found by searching the posts on this site. The basic idea is, assuming proper fusing, bigger wire is better. For the main runs, such as from the batteries to the switch, I'd just go to harbor freight or cummins tools and buy a big fat jumper cable, cut off the clamps, and install ring terminals...
With this setup, your outboard will charge your starter battery any time it is running, regardless of the switch. Likewise, the solar panel will charge your deep cycle battery regardless of the switch. Assuming the switch has an off position, you can isolate both batteries from the loads. You will, on an extended sail, have the switch in the "1" postion, or whatever you wired to the deep cycle battery. This allows the deep cycle to power all your loads and isolates your starter battery so it will be fresh for starting that outboard when you need it. If you want to charge your deep cycle from your alternator, all you have to do is switch the switch to the "both" position. Keep in mind that this effectively parallels the batteries too. So, if the deep cycle is drained the starter battery will dump ALOT of current into it as they attempt to equalize. The alternator will also be trying to charge both... This is where that BIG jumper cable wire comes in... You also want to be careful here. I'd avoid really running down my deep cycle to avoid this problem... One way of doing that would be to keep the switch in the both position. Just recognize that here your draining both batteries and it is possible to drain them so far that you can't start your outboard. Also, starter batteries don't like the the constant loads for extended periods. For a few hours, this is likely not a big deal. But, for extended sailing, you will need to switch to the "1" postion to isolate your starter battery and then you'll want another way of charging that deep cycle back up...
I actually have two battery banks, two power panels, and two switches on my boat. So, I wired the two switches backwards. I have a switch for each battery and the "1" position on each switch is wired so that battery powers panel #1, and so on... This allows me to completely isolate either battery bank while still powering either panel. Besides, I mounted the switches right at the batteries, so having the switches control the batteries in this manner, just made more sense for my installation...
Thank you so much, I really appreciate your time and all the info that you have provided and clear explanation.
Honestly I like your configuration. I think I figured out I will go with your configuration and install isolator bw two batteries and leave the switch into both position when I am storing the boat so that solar panel will charge both batteris.
Thank you again, best regards,
Erol
Honestly I like your configuration. I think I figured out I will go with your configuration and install isolator bw two batteries and leave the switch into both position when I am storing the boat so that solar panel will charge both batteris.
Thank you again, best regards,
Erol
Why would you install an isolator between the two batteries and then leave the switch in the both position? Unless I'm missing something, the isolator isolates the batteries. But, the switch ties them together. So, you are, in effect shorting out the isolator...
Now, what you might want to do, and maybe this is what you mean, is to connect the isolator between the alternator and the batteries. This will let your alternator charge both batteries, regardless of the switch. The problem to watch out for is your starter. My outboard only has two cables running to the battery. So, my alternator and starter use the same two cables. The problem I would have with your plan is that the starter would not be able to get current back through the isolator.
The isolator acts as two one-way gates. Current can flow from the alternator terminal to either of the battery terminals. But, current cannot flow from one battery to either the other battery or the alternator terminal. So, current can't get from the battery to the starter, through the isolator, which is almost certainly not rated for the starter current anyway... You may have used an isolator on a car or RV, which of course does have separate alternator/starter cables...
Of course, if you have separate cables for your starter and alternator, then this isn't an issue because you can wire your starter cables straight to your starter battery. In this case, I'd leave the switch in the "1" position, where the deep cycle battery always powers your electronics, is alway charged by your panel, and gets some charge whenever the alternator is running.
Rereading your post, it looks like you want to use the solar panel to essentially 'maintain' the batteries, rather than 'charge' them... It looks like you plan to use the isolator to allow your alternator to 'charge' both batteries. That sounds like a good plan, provided you have separate alternator/starter cables as discussed above...
Now, what you might want to do, and maybe this is what you mean, is to connect the isolator between the alternator and the batteries. This will let your alternator charge both batteries, regardless of the switch. The problem to watch out for is your starter. My outboard only has two cables running to the battery. So, my alternator and starter use the same two cables. The problem I would have with your plan is that the starter would not be able to get current back through the isolator.
The isolator acts as two one-way gates. Current can flow from the alternator terminal to either of the battery terminals. But, current cannot flow from one battery to either the other battery or the alternator terminal. So, current can't get from the battery to the starter, through the isolator, which is almost certainly not rated for the starter current anyway... You may have used an isolator on a car or RV, which of course does have separate alternator/starter cables...
Of course, if you have separate cables for your starter and alternator, then this isn't an issue because you can wire your starter cables straight to your starter battery. In this case, I'd leave the switch in the "1" position, where the deep cycle battery always powers your electronics, is alway charged by your panel, and gets some charge whenever the alternator is running.
Rereading your post, it looks like you want to use the solar panel to essentially 'maintain' the batteries, rather than 'charge' them... It looks like you plan to use the isolator to allow your alternator to 'charge' both batteries. That sounds like a good plan, provided you have separate alternator/starter cables as discussed above...
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baldbaby2000
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Erol,
I have the same setup: 2 batteries and a 1/both/2/off switch I considered DLT's wiring but decided on another approach. I have the common on the switch going to the motor (the starter and generator use the same wire so I can't separate them). Switch position 1 I connect to the battery designed for starting and position 2 I connect to the deep cycle. My solar panel and all electrical loads other than the motor are wired directly to the deep cycle. When the switch is in "both" position both batteries are connected and can be charged together by either the solar panel or the motor, or drained by either the motor starter or the boat electrical loads. This setup has the advantage that if the starter battery develops a shorted cell, the motor starter can be connected to battery 2 using the switch without having the bad battery in parallel. I can also completely disconnect power to the motor by putting the switch in the "off" position (don't do this while the motor's running). This way no one can mess with the raising and lowering of the motor since there's no power to the hydraulics and there's no chance of a short causing a fire (this line isn't fused at the battery).
Normally I leave the switch in the off position when I'm not on the boat. This way the solar panel charges the deep cycle battery only. When starting the motor and running it I generally put it to "both" so both batteries are being charged. When the motor's not running I switch it to anything but both because I don't want to drain the starter battery.
I think that West Marine may have various configurations described in their catalog.
An aside: I plug my solar panel into my mast head light connector on the deck for neatness. (I won't need the solar panel at the same time I need the mast head light.) I put a diode in parallel with the light switch in the cabin allowing current to flow to the battery when the switch is off or on, but I leave the switch off normally so the light on the switch doesn't drain the battery when there is no sunlight. When there is sunlight the switch light comes on which is good and bad. It indicates there is some current going into the battery but it used current that could be going into the battery.
I have the same setup: 2 batteries and a 1/both/2/off switch I considered DLT's wiring but decided on another approach. I have the common on the switch going to the motor (the starter and generator use the same wire so I can't separate them). Switch position 1 I connect to the battery designed for starting and position 2 I connect to the deep cycle. My solar panel and all electrical loads other than the motor are wired directly to the deep cycle. When the switch is in "both" position both batteries are connected and can be charged together by either the solar panel or the motor, or drained by either the motor starter or the boat electrical loads. This setup has the advantage that if the starter battery develops a shorted cell, the motor starter can be connected to battery 2 using the switch without having the bad battery in parallel. I can also completely disconnect power to the motor by putting the switch in the "off" position (don't do this while the motor's running). This way no one can mess with the raising and lowering of the motor since there's no power to the hydraulics and there's no chance of a short causing a fire (this line isn't fused at the battery).
Normally I leave the switch in the off position when I'm not on the boat. This way the solar panel charges the deep cycle battery only. When starting the motor and running it I generally put it to "both" so both batteries are being charged. When the motor's not running I switch it to anything but both because I don't want to drain the starter battery.
I think that West Marine may have various configurations described in their catalog.
An aside: I plug my solar panel into my mast head light connector on the deck for neatness. (I won't need the solar panel at the same time I need the mast head light.) I put a diode in parallel with the light switch in the cabin allowing current to flow to the battery when the switch is off or on, but I leave the switch off normally so the light on the switch doesn't drain the battery when there is no sunlight. When there is sunlight the switch light comes on which is good and bad. It indicates there is some current going into the battery but it used current that could be going into the battery.
I have a starting battery, a deep-cycle battery, and a 1-All-2-Off switch.
The positive heavy gauge cable from the outboard is connected to the common terminal on the switch, and with short, heavy gauge jumper cables, the starting battery is connected to the #1 switch terminal, and the deep-cycle to #2. The negative heavy gauge cable from the outboard is connected to the negative terminal on the starting battery, and there's a short heavy gauge jumper cable between the starting and deep-cycle battery negative terminals. This way the outboard can be started off #1 (usually), or #2, or both (All).
The reason for putting the starting battery on #1 is that it is far away from the Off position, on my switch. If the switch is accidentally put in the Off position while the outboard is running, the diodes in the rectifier or the alternator stator windings can be damaged. Whichever the order of your switch, put the starting battery on the position furthest from Off.
All of my house loads are connected, through fuses on the positive side, to the positive and negative terminals of the house battery. I do not have a solar panel, but if I did, I would connect it directly to the deep-cycle battery, positive and negative terminals.
As it is now, I have to switch to the All position for the outboard alternator to also charge the house battery, and if I had a solar panel, I'd also have to switch to the All position for the solar panel to charge the starting battery.
What I need is a "combiner." It is a mechanical relay-based devise that interconnects the battery positive terminals if the voltage on either rises to charging level. All mechanical devices eventually fail, so some use a diode-based "isolator" to do the same thing. The problem with an isolator is that the diodes lower the charging voltage the batteries see by 0.6V. That effectively turns a bulk mode charge into an absorbtion level, and an absorbtion level into a float level. I would NOT use an isolator, but a "combiner" instead.
A 5W panel puts out about only 1.25 amp-hours per day, on average (not just at the summer solstice), and if you say 4 out of the 5 weekdays are sunny, you can count on at least 5 amp-hours from weekend to weekend, and 7-8 per week during long-term storage. Depending on temperature, a flooded-cell battery can self-discharge 7-8% per week. So a single 5W panel is about enough to keep a single fully charged battery fully charged, but not contribute much to a discharged battery. I'd recommend two 5W panels for two batteries, just for maintenance, and much more panel wattage if you expect solar panels to make up for your electrical use. For example, running only one of the 1.5 amp interior lights for 2 hours for 2 nights consumes 6 amp-hours.
You don't need a solar "charge controller" until the panels' peak current output exceeds about 1.5% of the battery's amp-hour capacity. A 5W panel probably outputs 0.375 amps at best, which is less than 1.5% of a single 85 amp-hour Group 24 battery. So you shouldn't need a charge controller. Do check as Kevin mentions below, that your panel has a diode to prevent the panel from draining the battery at night. If it doesn't, get an appropriately rated one from Radio Shack.
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Moe
The positive heavy gauge cable from the outboard is connected to the common terminal on the switch, and with short, heavy gauge jumper cables, the starting battery is connected to the #1 switch terminal, and the deep-cycle to #2. The negative heavy gauge cable from the outboard is connected to the negative terminal on the starting battery, and there's a short heavy gauge jumper cable between the starting and deep-cycle battery negative terminals. This way the outboard can be started off #1 (usually), or #2, or both (All).
The reason for putting the starting battery on #1 is that it is far away from the Off position, on my switch. If the switch is accidentally put in the Off position while the outboard is running, the diodes in the rectifier or the alternator stator windings can be damaged. Whichever the order of your switch, put the starting battery on the position furthest from Off.
All of my house loads are connected, through fuses on the positive side, to the positive and negative terminals of the house battery. I do not have a solar panel, but if I did, I would connect it directly to the deep-cycle battery, positive and negative terminals.
As it is now, I have to switch to the All position for the outboard alternator to also charge the house battery, and if I had a solar panel, I'd also have to switch to the All position for the solar panel to charge the starting battery.
What I need is a "combiner." It is a mechanical relay-based devise that interconnects the battery positive terminals if the voltage on either rises to charging level. All mechanical devices eventually fail, so some use a diode-based "isolator" to do the same thing. The problem with an isolator is that the diodes lower the charging voltage the batteries see by 0.6V. That effectively turns a bulk mode charge into an absorbtion level, and an absorbtion level into a float level. I would NOT use an isolator, but a "combiner" instead.
A 5W panel puts out about only 1.25 amp-hours per day, on average (not just at the summer solstice), and if you say 4 out of the 5 weekdays are sunny, you can count on at least 5 amp-hours from weekend to weekend, and 7-8 per week during long-term storage. Depending on temperature, a flooded-cell battery can self-discharge 7-8% per week. So a single 5W panel is about enough to keep a single fully charged battery fully charged, but not contribute much to a discharged battery. I'd recommend two 5W panels for two batteries, just for maintenance, and much more panel wattage if you expect solar panels to make up for your electrical use. For example, running only one of the 1.5 amp interior lights for 2 hours for 2 nights consumes 6 amp-hours.
You don't need a solar "charge controller" until the panels' peak current output exceeds about 1.5% of the battery's amp-hour capacity. A 5W panel probably outputs 0.375 amps at best, which is less than 1.5% of a single 85 amp-hour Group 24 battery. So you shouldn't need a charge controller. Do check as Kevin mentions below, that your panel has a diode to prevent the panel from draining the battery at night. If it doesn't, get an appropriately rated one from Radio Shack.
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Moe
Last edited by Moe on Mon Jul 11, 2005 5:40 am, edited 2 times in total.
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kmclemore
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That's a great synoposis, Moe.. I'm saving it and printing for my files!
I do have a couple questions, but pardon my ignorance of all things electronic!
First: Re the 5W solar panel output - my calculation tells me that 5 Watts/14 Volts=0.357 Amps - but you say it will put out 1.275 Amps - not sure I understand where that number comes from.
Second: I have a 40W solar panel on my boat, mounted to the top of the slider (I know, not the best location as it get shade from the boom, but at least it's out of the way!). I have a solar charge controller on it, but does it really need one? Mainly, I guess, I have it on there to prevent back-flow into the panel at night. I have the solar panel wired to the input to the combiner.
I do have a couple questions, but pardon my ignorance of all things electronic!
First: Re the 5W solar panel output - my calculation tells me that 5 Watts/14 Volts=0.357 Amps - but you say it will put out 1.275 Amps - not sure I understand where that number comes from.
Second: I have a 40W solar panel on my boat, mounted to the top of the slider (I know, not the best location as it get shade from the boom, but at least it's out of the way!). I have a solar charge controller on it, but does it really need one? Mainly, I guess, I have it on there to prevent back-flow into the panel at night. I have the solar panel wired to the input to the combiner.
Good catch Kevin... no way 5W / 12-17V is greater than 1 A. Not sure where I got that. I will fix that in my post.
Does your panel have the reverse current diode in it? If so, and you have sufficient battery capacity, you many not need the controller.
If we were mooring at the slip with no power as originally planned, or had to keep the boat in a storage area, I'd definitely get a panel, but it looks like we're going to have it in the driveway for some time.
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Moe
Does your panel have the reverse current diode in it? If so, and you have sufficient battery capacity, you many not need the controller.
If we were mooring at the slip with no power as originally planned, or had to keep the boat in a storage area, I'd definitely get a panel, but it looks like we're going to have it in the driveway for some time.
--
Moe
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Catigale
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That cutoff is a non-trivial safety feature. If you get an electrical fire, a cut off switch is a quick way to remove the primary source of heat so you can get that fire out.
Trying to remove battery cables while the toxic fumes build up down below doesnt sound like a good time...
FWIW, my vision of fighting a fire on board is chopping power, and seeing if I can douse it with an extinguisher from the companionway.
If I cant, its abandon ship and get away from all that gas.
Trying to remove battery cables while the toxic fumes build up down below doesnt sound like a good time...
FWIW, my vision of fighting a fire on board is chopping power, and seeing if I can douse it with an extinguisher from the companionway.
If I cant, its abandon ship and get away from all that gas.