Mast raising

[Bertil Rafting]

I have the mast raising kit with the tube and the crankingset from Macgregor. It works good raising the mast by yourself, but I do not like to stow it away onboard. It takes a lot of space and weight. So I made another arrangement:

I use a tube 1800 mm length (weighing 0,5 kg)connected to mast on a forward mast track and a car (I usually use it for keeping the headsail in downwind where I want it).
In one end of the tube I have mounted a block.
When I want to raise or lower the mast I use that tube standing in front of the mast (as the ordinary mast raising kit) and the gennaker sheet leading through the block in the raised tube mentioned above, then to the front pulpit through a block and then back to one winsch. Then I can raise or lower the mast by myself and faster then with the orginal mast raising kit. The weight of the added equipment is about 0,5 kg excluding the tube mentioned above.The equipment takes up always no space onboard.
Of course you need to secure the tube sideways in both ends with 2 pair of lines with hooks. You also need a line from the top of the tube to the forward pulpit.
Bertil

[Phil M]

I have the mast raising kit with the tube and the crankingset from Macgregor. It works good raising the mast by yourself, but I do not like to stow it away onboard. It takes a lot of space and weight. So I made another arrangement:

Bertil

I stow my mrk in the back of the truck, along with rear tie-downs, furler extension support, and mid-mast support.

[grady]

My boat did not come with the mast raising system. I used the Hulk method for around 3 years then decided there is a better way. Mine was designed similar to yours. A square aluminum tube with supports on the pivot part. I use the spin halyard to attach to that then a block on the deck and raising pole so I have a 2 to 1. From there I do the same and run it back to the winch. My new self tailing winches make it even better.



It is light and takes up almost no space but I throw it in the back of the truck when I am done. Do not want that in my way when sailing!

[Neo]

In one end of the tube I have mounted a block.
When I want to raise or lower the mast I use that tube standing in front of the mast (as the ordinary mast raising kit) and the gennaker sheet leading through the block in the raised tube mentioned above, then to the front pulpit through a block and then back to one winsch. Then I can raise or lower the mast by myself and faster then with the orginal mast raising kit.

Hi Bertil, Could you post up some photos?
Once you've raised the mast it sounds like your Mast raising pole would end up almost parallel/flat to the deck?

I leave my Mac MRS is the truck but I'd prefer to and to have an easily stow'able system.

Another thing I don't like about the Mac MRS is hearing the rope slip (a little) as it's being wound into the winch as the mast is raised .... Always scares the Sh*t out of me

[Bertil Rafting]

To Neo captain:
-I have no photo, but the tube I use is used for connection with the headsails clew so I can keep track of the headsail sailing downwind.
-When not in use for mastraising or for sailing the tube sits in the forefront of the mast on a track mounted to the mast with a car so I can point it whereever I want.
Bertil

[Neo]

Ah, it sounds like you are describing a Whisker Pole? ....


It also sound like you have just two single blocks? or are you using something like the main sheet blocks? .....What do you do if something (like a stay) becomes tangled/caught while you're raising the mast?... What would happen if the rope you're pulling slips out of your hand?

One of the great things about the Mac MRS is the two-way clutch winch (you can stop, let go, reverse and start again at any time) but that same winch makes the MRS is very awkward to stow on board.
My ideal solution would be to have system where the clutch winch is quickly detachable but I can't see a way to do that and still maintain the strength the whole system requires.


All the best.
Neo

[Tomfoolery]

My system has 5-parts of line (larger blocks than the originals, with ball bearings), and I run the line through the main halyard rope clutch. I can stop anywhere, and by taking a turn around the winch drum, control lowering with one hand even at low angles, and usually do just that as I steer the mast into the roller while keeping rigging out of the way.

But I have to deal with the two large(ish) blocks when I'm not using it. I pin the lower block to the pin through the yoke at the bottom of the pole, and coil the line, but it's still a bit heavy and clumsy. Maybe worse than the winch on your system.

And I'd like to have a whisker pole, as it's easier to work when single-handing (without an autohelm), but just haven't gotten around to it. Had one on my last boat, and it was one of the best improvements I ever did to a boat (bought it cheap off a swap-n-sell listing through my old marina). Line control pole - $$$$ new, but high $$ or low $$$ used (don't remember exactly).

Hey, wait a minute. That pole looks awfully familiar. Line control. Spinnaker halyard holding up the outboard end. Rigid struts to the B&R rig. UK sails. That's my Hunter!

[Neo]

Hey, wait a minute. That pole looks awfully familiar. Line control. Spinnaker halyard holding up the outboard end. Rigid struts to the B&R rig. UK sails. That's my Hunter!

...Yep I copied the pic link from the "Whisker Pole" thread.... I think you actually posted that pic.

And I'd like to have a whisker pole.

Me too Tom ..... I need to get something working for this .... And don't think it would look good using the MRS pole (with the Winch still attached!) for this

[Tomfoolery]

And I'd like to have a whisker pole.

Me too Tom ..... I need to get something working for this .... And don't think it would look good using the MRS pole (with the Winch still attached!) for this

The 6-12' twist-lock Forespar is probably fine for the working jib, but too short (and too light even if longer) for the 150 genoa.

But in the Catigale vein of 3 functions or more for a new piece of equipment on board, and being that the MRS pole is 6 ft long, I suppose a telescopic whisker pole collapsed all the way down could be configured for both MRS and whisker pole duty. The MRS pole is in compression only, so collapsed against stops there's no risk of it failing (assuming adequate diameter and wall for buckling resistance). The twist-lock function is only needed for whisker pole duty. And you may be able to put a boat hook tip on it, for the third function.

The West Marine heavy duty boat hook is 6' telescoping to 14'. But I don't know what the OD or wall thickness is of the outer section. I have that one, so once I open the boat, I can measure it up. Hmmmmm......

[Bertil Rafting]

To Neo and others:
-Yes the tube is also used as a whisker pool.
-I only use single blocks.
-The winch I have is an Andersen 34ST (self-tailing), so there is no problem to stop mast raising or lowering if somethings gets hooked up. For the schrouds I use dynemaa 5/4 mm instead
of steel wire. Light and easy and do not easy get hooked up.
Bertil

[NiceAft]

Bertil,

I believe it's time for you to start posting photographs. Some of us are visually dependent .

Ray

[Neo]

In one end of the tube I have mounted a block.
When I want to raise or lower the mast I use that tube standing in front of the mast (as the ordinary mast raising kit) and the gennaker sheet leading through the block in the raised tube mentioned above, then to the front pulpit through a block and then back to one winsch. Then I can raise or lower the mast by myself and faster then with the orginal mast raising kit.

I second that NiceAft.
Hi Bertil, re-reading your description it sounds like you are in the helm/lower deck cranking a helm winch while the mast is being raised or lowered above your head? ..... Sorry, but with a 30ft Ali tube (and steel cables) hanging up there I can't think of a more dangerous place to be if ANYTHING went wrong .... I have personally seen a mast fall to the ground and I would never allow anyone to be in the helm area when raising or lowering the mast.... I hope you understand

[Bertil Rafting]

To Neo and others:
If the mast falls it will fall close beside me, but not at me.

[BOAT]

If you like to keep your MRS on board you don't need to take it off - the boat sails fine with the MRS fully attached to the mast and the baby stays - the only thing you need to remove is the line to the forward cleat. Just wind up the MRS so it's tight against the mast. Lots of folks sail with the MRS attached. I have done it a couple of times (practicing for my someday trip to the Erie Canal to see Tom) and for practicing for the low bridges in Long Beach and Newport, only when I do it I remove the baby stays.

I often thought the MRS would be a good thing to have attached in a storm, baby stays, forward line and all as added support for a reefed main only sail in really really bad seas. It's also a fast way to free your boat of busted rigging in case you turn turtle and break the mast. Just lower the whole rig, unbolt it, and cut away the stays with wire cutters. (I guess you can tell I have had some bad experiences in heavy seas - I'm always paranoid of a busted boat). You can survive it if you can keep the decks clear.

[Neo]

If the mast falls it will fall close beside me, but not at me.

Sorry Bertil, but If the mast falls while the wind is blowing there's no way to tell what (or who ) it will hit.
I have seen a mast fall (my own) and I can tell you do not have a lot of time to get out of the way. My mast did not hit the helm box or the captains chair and there was no wind blowing at that time.

If you've ever cut a big tree down with a chainsaw you'll know how it has a mind of it's own

Best of luck.
Neo