26x Modifications

[dlandersson]

That Roger was one smart cookie.

The forward seat back slides out and can be placed cushion upwards on top of the port bench cushion and under the starboard v berth cushion to extend the v berth. Works perfectly.

[Catigale]

MInor point but the SWL of a 5000# shackle is about 1000#, still 5x more than the anticpated load.

More importantly, your shackle is much more secure than the stock clevis pin/ring ding setup

[Dutch01527]

Academic point and I may be wrong and would welcome correction but the Winchard 70mm fixed eye snap shackle I was concidering is rated at 3000kg breaking strain and 1280kg swl. I guessed the imperial equivalent because I was too lazy to look it up before posting. I think that is enough to lift the whole boat and way over spec as pointed out.

https://www.s3i.co.uk/wichard-snap-shac ... ed-eye.php

[C Buchs]

MInor point but the SWL of a 5000# shackle is about 1000#, still 5x more than the anticpated load.

I work for a company that makes rigging hardware. We stopped using SWL because the S stands for Safe. Crosby lost a lawsuit because someone claimed they thought it was safe to operate at the limit. Everything made in the last 20 years should have WLL (working load limit). Most shackles are designed for overhead lifting and have a 5:1 safety factor. Blocks are generally 4:1. However, we make some shackles and blocks specifically for towing that have a 2.5:1 factor. Applications for lifting people are usually 6:1. They’re also designed around ideal loading conditions. How much of the inside of a shackle bale and how much of the pin is supported can have a big effect on when they break. Shock loads (an accidental jibe) can have huge forces. The snap shackle on my main sheet popped right open during an accidental jibe on my . Wife wasn’t happy! I could go on, but I think I’ll finish by saying “NEVER EXCEED THE WORKING LOAD LIMIT”.

Jeff

[sailboatmike]

Thanks for that info on lifting ratings, I alway thought that there was SWL and a breaking strength.

How does WLL compare with SWL, of example in Australia the breaking strength may be 1000Kg, so the SWL would be 200Kg or there abouts. so what would be the WLL?

Or is just the change of jargon to save legal repercussions , like we dont have Life Jackets anymore, because according to the Coast Guard they wont save your life, they will only aid your floatation, we now a Personal Floatation Devices or PFD's

I can see some idiot taking the company to court because someone drowned wearing a "Life Jacket" , however a Personal Floatation Device (PFD) only assists floatation and means it isnt inferred that it will save your life. Its the same product just a different name.

[C Buchs]

Thanks for that info on lifting ratings, I alway thought that there was SWL and a breaking strength.

How does WLL compare with SWL, of example in Australia the breaking strength may be 1000Kg, so the SWL would be 200Kg or there abouts. so what would be the WLL?

Or is just the change of jargon to save legal repercussions , like we dont have Life Jackets anymore, because according to the Coast Guard they wont save your life, they will only aid your floatation, we now a Personal Floatation Devices or PFD's

I can see some idiot taking the company to court because someone drowned wearing a "Life Jacket" , however a Personal Floatation Device (PFD) only assists floatation and means it isnt inferred that it will save your life. Its the same product just a different name.

It's just a change in jargon.

Again keep in mind that breaking strengths are found under ideal conditions and "quality" rigging hardware will deform significantly before it breaks. A lot of "cheap" rigging won't deform much before it breaks. When we do break tests we like to see lots of stretching. You don't want to opperate anything critical in the real world anywhere near the breaking strength and if its deforming, you're overloading it!

Jeff

[Dutch01527]

Most European sites still quote SWL and breaking load.

Given the lightweight nature of the original main sheet connecting point on the pedestal I do not think that the shackle breaking is the main risk. It coming undone is the major risk and keeping the original main sheet connected and tight means that even if that happened the boom movement would be only a foot or two. It is only used to pull the boom the extra little bit to the middle of the boat when trying to get the last bit of close hauled performance.

Though I am not sure why I am doing it since I am not going to be racing and do not really care how quick I am going.

[Starscream]

Still to do
- additional battery and voltage regulator

I have been playing with the electrical of my X for the past few weeks. I might start a post about that but since you were talking batteries I wanted to post for everyone that MinnKota is offering a $50 mail-in rebate on their chargers until July 2016, both for US and Canadian orders. I just bought this charger http://www.minnkotamotors.com/Products/MK-212PC/on Amazon.ca to replace the piece of junk charger that I had on board. This one will give me the option of changing to any different type of battery in the future, plus it has an equalization cycle for acid batteries.

[Highlander]

Thanks for the input. I am still not convinced that a snap shackle is not a safe option but will do some more research given the warnings.

My thinking is that the breaking load of 5000lb for a 2 1/2" shackle (SWL 2000lb) is plenty. The risk is that the shackle opens and if that happened the original main sheet would still be in place and secure. The boom would only jump a foot or two, much less stress than a gybe. If is gets stuck not really an issue can just unhook from the boom and sort out at leisure. I have used snap shackles for years on sheets and halyards and never had or heard of a failure.

I saw the twin main sheet set up but thought that this could be an easier option and less cluttered

Agree about mast raising on a snap shackle.

I use snap shackles on my mainsheet & preventer as u say as long as they r rated strong enough u should be ok

J

[Highlander]

I thought about a 2 piece washboard but to fit in the side and bottom groove it needs to be thin and I was concerned about the join between the two parts letting in water and also the strength / security of two pieces. Much thicker acrylic would be an option with the sides, bottom and join routered but that would be much more expensive and I decided that a 1 piece would do the job adequately.

The new acrylic one piece is very light and I store it on the rear bunk. It matches the side panel of the pedestal and looks much better than the original imho.

Here,s my two piece
http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab1/ ... 2f88c6.jpg

http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab1/ ... 6d33d2.jpg

http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab1/ ... 3d594b.jpg

both sections r re-enforced with alum flat bar on both sides as seen here before being painted
http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab1/ ... 6d5a1a.jpg

http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab1/ ... dd31b5.jpg

J

[sailboatmike]

I see a traveller on the cockpit floor Highlander, how does that work for you?? I think the X would be a far better sailing craft with one.

I was also contemplating building a bridge deck in front of the companion way and mounting a traveller there or just a fly over bar over the top of the companion way hatch with a traveller mounted on it.

[dlandersson]

I kinda lean towards one on the cabin top.

I see a traveller on the cockpit floor Highlander, how does that work for you?? I think the X would be a far better sailing craft with one.

I was also contemplating building a bridge deck in front of the companion way and mounting a traveller there or just a fly over bar over the top of the companion way hatch with a traveller mounted on it.

[Dutch01527]

Update on mods done
-Becket / cam cleat on cockpit track to allow Genoa/Jib sheet handling from steering position ( when winch is not needed) - great mod. Almost never need the winchs and tacking can be done without leaving the helm position. Cost £30 on eBay
- longer (40m) 8mm braid spiniker halyard running deck to mast head to pulpit to winch/cleat. Works as a 2nd safety forestay/mast raiser using winch - gives a great sence of additional security. If the forestay breaks the mast is still secure. Cost £30 for the haylyard and used a couple of snap blocks I already had
- replaced shroud tensioner with turn buckles. Much better tension in the rig. Cost £40
- replace all clevis pins and rings. Cost £20
- fitted quick release pins for spreader fixings ( under compressive load so should be safe). When I drop the mast I uncouple the spreaders and use long heavy duty cable ties to attach mast. Cost £20 from eBay. I could not find marine pins so used U shaped tractor pins. I also now use the same pin to keep the rubbers up when trailering and to connect the boom goose neck. Cable ties securing everything to the mast when trailering much quicker and works great. Cost £5 from screwfix
- Plasimo fold down helm seat fixed to the fold up transom. Cost £40. Makes steering much more comfortable when motoring and visibility better. Also is a back rest in the folded down position when sitting behind the wheel
- Led lights in cabin. Bulb change did not work for some reason so I replaced the light fittings to ease battery drain. Cost £20 on ebay
- 3 way fuel valve ( automotive cut off valve) to allow switching between fuel tanks easy without having to disconnect / reconnect fuel lines. Cost £5 on eBay plus extra fuel line and tank connector which I already had. Simply the cheapest and best mod ever. Now if one tank is reaching empty I just twist the valve in the line and the other tank takes over, no need to prime second tank
- mountain climbing figure of eight used as boom brake. Run old halyard line from port stantion to boom to starboard stantion block and back to spare locking cleat by my cockpit winch. Cost £5. Prevents the need for a preventor and makes gibes slow and safe.

All in all the mods make sailing the boat much easier and safer and have cost very little. Difficult to describe sometimes, I am happy to answer any questions and will try and add photos when I launch the boat in the spring.

[Gazmn]

I kinda lean towards one on the cabin top.

I see a traveller on the cockpit floor Highlander, how does that work for you?? I think the X would be a far better sailing craft with one.

I was also contemplating building a bridge deck in front of the companion way and mounting a traveller there or just a fly over bar over the top of the companion way hatch with a traveller mounted on it.

One of the best mods I have done for sailing was my Traveller install