Texlan wrote:Hi there, I picked up a '90 mac 26s about a year ago and can relate to the terrible wiring and plumbing...

I stripped it all out and replaced everything, rebedded all deck hardware, and added a lot of 'creature comforts,' so the YL will actually spend some quality time with me..
Our mainsail sounds like it was in the same shape as yours. I made the call to remove the bolt rope threads tying it into the clew and the first (only) reef clew. After straightening the sail out and taking up all of the slack (took a bit of work) the bolt rope had moved up a good 18 inches...too high to sew it back into the clew. This means that eventually the sail fabric will stretch itself out without the bolt rope support, but I figure it's a good trade since I will want to get a new main eventually anyways, this at least lets us sail. The shape of the sail has been restored, the boom does not hang into the cockpit now and all is good. i'll note I also cut the bolt rope free in the foot of the sail, as it was also terribly bunched up and contributed to the baggyness.
We've had her out a several times and all is good. wind is usually lightish (5-10knts) here in Arizona when we have time to sail. Latest experiment has been flying the sail loose footed and things really went well with that. I didn't lock the clew to the boom this time, but rather anchored to an adjustable downhaul.. it allows me to raise the halyard to the top (or close) and then haul down to firmly set the sail's last couple inchees (I removed the almost-useless winches so this really helps with getting the main up.) That with the adjustable outhaul lead to the cockpit it really opened up the ability to shape the sail and make the most of the light airs.
Summary Opinion: cut the bolt rope(s) free so you can use it, but be aware that the sail will need to be replaced soon.
Sean
Hi All,
I wanted to drop in on this thread to add some professional perspective, but I'm not free to write much right now. So a quick comment will have to do for now.
+1 to Sean's post. I think Sean is right about the bolt rope in the mainsail. That mainsail is on its last legs. Easing the bolt rope with improve it a lot. But even if you easethe bolt rope, It's still waaaay past its "best used by" date.
As always, my advice is to buy the sail with the lowest stretch sailcloth that fits your budget. Better cloth holds its shape longer. Do you want the sail to perform like new for 20 days of sailing? or 40 days? 200 days of sailing? In the long run, better sailcloth means you replace your sails less frequently.
So my first question is: How many days a year do you sail and how many seasons worth of good performance do you want to buy?
The less the sailcloth stretches, the less your boat will heel, the higher it will point, the more wind it will handle comfortably, and the less often you'll need to reef. The sail will be more forgiving of steering and trimming errors. The boat will "sail better". Please not that I am NOT talking about how fast you can sail - I'm talking about how much control and comfort you have while you're sailing.
So to rephrase my first question: How many years of low heeling, good pointing, and gust control do you want to buy?
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Secondly, I would urge caution about using a genoa designed for one boat (Mac26M) and on a boat with a completely different rig and proportions (Mac26C) . If it doesn't have the clew in the right place compared to the location of teh genoa tracks, it will have too much or too little twist. The sheet will pull the leech too tight or loosely, and that will make a huge difference in how much power you get, how much it heels, and how high it might point.
The devils in the details, as they say. One important detail is that the luff on the 26M genoa is about 2' longer than the luff on the 26S & 26D genoa. That's going to make a difference. I really don't know, off the top of my head, how the design will match the hardware on the boat. The best way to figure it out is to take it out sailing and see how good you can get the shape to look on the boat.
A sail that was specifically designed to match the forestay and track position usually makes it much easier to get a "good shape" even if you're not an expert trimmer. It's more tolerant of "trimmer error" than a sail that doesn't quite fit right.
"good shape" means that for a certain wind and sea state, the draft is in the right depth and distance from the luff, the luff has the right curve to it, there's the correct amount of tension which give the right amount of twist, etc.