Obelix suggested I start a new forum thread on building DIY in-boom furlers for the Mac. So this is it. Firstly, you should google the CDI MR2 mainsail furling system and decide whether that complete system is not a better bet for you. For those who rarely trailer, it's a pre-fab system that would be easy to install on a Mac. However, it will dramatically complicate trailering, which this boom furling system is designed to keep very simple and easy.
What I'd proposed is using a piece of aluminum C-channel extrusion as a boom, with a typical furler located inside the channel such that the benefits of a rigid, non-rotating boom are preserved and roller furling is possible.
It's pretty clear how this would work. I'll talk the system aft from the mast to the boom-end.
0) Obtain a loose-footed, bolt-roped mainsail of lightweight cloth having #6 luff tape installed. Converting an existing older mainsail is a good idea. Tightly roll this sail from the foot to the head, and note the maximum width of the tightly rolled bundle forward.
1) The mast is prepared with a Spin-lock bolt-rope feeder above the bolt-rope feed slot to ensure proper feeding. These work great, I had one on my boat until I went with track.
2) The stock gooseneck assembly is used, except that the tack ring bolt is replaced with a swivel shackle, allowing the furling line to rotate.
3) Obtain an 11" long extrusion of aluminum C-channel according to these specifications:
Length: 11"
width & height: From measurement in step 0.
wall thickness: 0.12 or greater (likely you will not be able to obtain this thin of C-channel)
Material: 6063-T6 aluminum alloy with 202 R1 anodization
3) A single extrusion of aluminum C-Channel is drilled such that a nylock bolt will pass through the gooseneck hole, thus connecting the C-channel to the gooseneck in exactly the same manner as the existing boom is connected. Now the C-channel is rigged as a boom.
4) As near as practical to the bottom edge of the boom, and at the same lengths rearward as on the original boom, drill holes for the vang bail and mainsheet bails, and install.
5) Obtain roller furling luff extrusion part CDI LFF2 http://www.mauriprosailing.com/us/product/CDILFF2.html. Cut to 10'6".
6) Install the furling luff extrusion onto the foot of the mainsail. Shackle the tack of the mainsail to the swivel shackle above the gooseneck at the mast base. Using a small length of rope, tie the clew of the mainsail to the furler extrusion base drum (the black portion at the end of the extrusion) using a soft-shackle knot.
7) Drill two holes midway high near the end of the boom for passing a nylock bolt through. Affix a swivel shackle to a bolt through and nylock this. Fix the end of the furling extrusion drum to this swivel shackle. Drill holes for another bolt near the top of the extrusion for the outhaul.
9) The outhaul will need to be turned back forward with check blocks, which may or may not be possible to do inside the boom. Budget two cheeck-blocks, one at the aft end of the boom and one at the forward end, to take the outhaul forward to the mast and then back to the cockpit. The best possible mounting should be determined at installation.
10) Install and tension the mainsail with the outhaul. Determine where the drum portion of the luff extrusion lies in the C-channel. This should be at 10' 9" back on the C-channel. At this point drill a 1/4" hole centered on the bottom of the C-channel. Bolt a thru-deck block at this point to turn the furling line forward. At the forward bottom of the boom (routing through the mainsheet and vang bails) mount a turning block to lead the furling line down the mast. At the mast base, bolt a shackle block to the mast slot to turn the furling line back to the cockpit. Finish by mounting a cleat or cam-cleat at the cabin top as per your preference, or using the existing winches and cleats.
The rolling boom is now complete. By slacking the outhaul slightly and loosing the main halyard, and then hauling on the furling line, the furling extrusion will twist the mainsail into the boom.
Note that this furler does not include a wire stay, relying instead on the tension of the mainsail foot bolt rope. This should work just fine. Also, I have not included any kind of spool retaining ends on the furler. These will likely be necessary, and will have to be fashioned specifically for the luff extrusion, which I've not seen and can't specify. Alternatively, you could fit an entire CDI MR2010 drum assembly into the extrusion, but I don't think that's necessary at all.
Anyway, those are just my thoughts. The purpose of this thread is to discuss this as a possible solution. I wanted to be sure that this can dismount just as easily as the current boom, taking the boom, furling assembly, and mainsail away in one step. It can lie inside the boat on the cabin sole to port for trailering, and should be simple to maneuver into that location. I would strongly recommend using it with a topping lift due to the weight of the system. I would also recommend affixing some sort of padding on the boom end and corners to make them safer.
Matt



