Keel Bolts M 22 1980
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DrunkenOldsalt
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Keel Bolts M 22 1980
Just purchased a 1980 M 22 with an iron keel.
Have user Manual which shows the keel bolt configuration.
The locking bolt is jammed in and previous owner tried to remove it ^$%#(^
Before I start to drill the bolt out what am I getting into.
1/ Is there a steel plate that the bolt goes through?
2/ Is it a straight hole or threaded?
3/ Is there a special type of bolt or just a plain SS with a nut?
4/ Any other help you can give me
Thanks
guys
Drunken old salt
Have user Manual which shows the keel bolt configuration.
The locking bolt is jammed in and previous owner tried to remove it ^$%#(^
Before I start to drill the bolt out what am I getting into.
1/ Is there a steel plate that the bolt goes through?
2/ Is it a straight hole or threaded?
3/ Is there a special type of bolt or just a plain SS with a nut?
4/ Any other help you can give me
Thanks
guys
Drunken old salt
- Catigale
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Re: Keel Bolts M 22 1980
There are some iron keel threads in the Venture forum,dos...I'm going to move the thread there to see if that can get some attention.
Stand by...on the uproll, move thread!!
Stand by...on the uproll, move thread!!
Re: Keel Bolts M 22 1980
1/ Is there a steel plate that the bolt goes through? No, just the keel (iron or steel depending on the year) and the fiberglass trunk.
2/ Is it a straight hole or threaded? Straight hole with a nut on the back.
3/ Is there a special type of bolt or just a plain SS with a nut? Nothing special.
4/ Any other help you can give me. There should be plenty of clearance for the bolt. Try raising or lowering the keel to remove any strain on the bolt before drilling it. It may just slide out.
2/ Is it a straight hole or threaded? Straight hole with a nut on the back.
3/ Is there a special type of bolt or just a plain SS with a nut? Nothing special.
4/ Any other help you can give me. There should be plenty of clearance for the bolt. Try raising or lowering the keel to remove any strain on the bolt before drilling it. It may just slide out.
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briantousignant
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Re: Keel Bolts M 22 1980
I removed mine by lowering with cable until the keel rested on the trailer axle. Then jack the fwd end of keel to remove weight from bolt. Drive bolt out using center punch and hammer. Good luck. Mine was a real grunt. 
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DrunkenOldsalt
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Re: Keel Bolts M 22 1980
Appreciate the info. Wish me luckbriantousignant wrote:I removed mine by lowering with cable until the keel rested on the trailer axle. Then jack the fwd end of keel to remove weight from bolt. Drive bolt out using center punch and hammer. Good luck. Mine was a real grunt.
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DrunkenOldsalt
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Re: Keel Bolts M 22 1980
ThanksCatigale wrote:There are some iron keel threads in the Venture forum,dos...I'm going to move the thread there to see if that can get some attention.
Stand by...on the uproll, move thread!!
Please keep me posted
Appreciate the information
DOS
- ULLR
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Re: Keel Bolts M 22 1980
I have a 1982 Mac 22 and am looking for info on keel as well...do you have any pics of lock bolt set up? I have been told that there is a lock bolt with a nut to lock keel down but can't find any actual pics of assembly. Ii have figured out there are 3 caps on trunk, if I pull middle cap I can slide the bolt through the trunk and rudder but there is no nut on backside and no access to put one there. Any knowledge u have gained working on yours would be appreciated.
Re: Keel Bolts M 22 1980
There is access to put on a wingnut and rubber washer through the starboard settee close to the keel trunk. So you have to reach way back there and feel around for the hole. That's where it is. Make sure and use thick (maybe 1/8 inch)rubber washers that go on against the keel trunk, then stainless washer then wingnut...same for the port side too but of course it will be the bolt head instead of wingnut. Make sure your rubber and stainless washers are big enough to keep water out. This is because you will have some water splash in around the bolt holes and put a little water in your bilge when sailing.
Re: Keel Bolts M 22 1980
Yup, I have helped my buddy with his a few times, the pivot bolt keeps letting water in while sitting at the slip, second year of it happening now. We ended up cutting an access hole about 4" on both sides so its easier to see what is going on.Make sure and use thick (maybe 1/8 inch)rubber washers that go on against the keel trunk, then stainless washer then wingnut...same for the port side too but of course it will be the bolt head instead of wingnut. Make sure your rubber and stainless washers are big enough to keep water out. This is because you will have some water splash in around the bolt holes and put a little water in your bilge when sailing.
- ULLR
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Re: Keel Bolts M 22 1980
That makes sense, I had wondered about reaching in under the seat but have 2 batteries and all wiring in the way. Also had thought about using a cup saw to put access holes on head side of trunk to access. I'm not really worried about pivot at this time but had wanted to be able to put nut on backside of lock bolt to keep water from sloshing in when tacking. I'll pull the batteries once I pull into the shop for winter and have a look to see how the access is, may end up drilling the holes yet. Does anyone actually use the lock bolt to bolt keel solid or do the leave it out so it can kick up if you run aground? Also wondering if there is any need to keep the keel clean and painted as mine is very rusty and doubt it could hold paint for long even if I did.
Re: Keel Bolts M 22 1980
I had thought about drilling an access hole thru right by the head so I don't have to reach so far back but I have a tough time "cutting" extra holes in there but I know alot of people do. My wires are not in the way and just keep one battery in there so it's not much of a problem....yes it is uncomfortable putting it together without seeing back there but takes me about 20 seconds. For the first 2 seasons I did not lock it down and because of inexperience really "lost" control numerous times by not releasing main sheet quick enough and rounded up quite quickly and we were OK (we get serious gusts here in Oklahoma). I do lock the keel down now when way out in open water to be in the habit for safety, prevent it from bouncing up and down so much and hopefully performance however I have not noticed a difference with the latter. I got paranoid reading posts about keels rusting out real bad so I took mine out, ground off the rust, primed with rust preventative and painted it with rustoleum mixed with tractor paint hardner. It's been 2 years and holding up awesome!
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Curious Sailor
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Re: Keel Bolts M 22 1980
I had to cut mine out also. The problem is the ss has a dissimilar reaction with iron and it practically welds itself to the keel. I cleaned out the keel hole and and will most likely go with galvanized to minimize dissimilar metal reaction.
Good luck!
Good luck!
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DrunkenOldsalt
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Re: Keel Bolts M 22 1980
So the saga continues.
I don't like cutting holes into structural parts of a boat until I know what I'm getting into.
Having said that. There was already one hole on the Portside that gave access to the locking Bolt, I finally broke down and cut another 3inch hole on the Starb'd side. Not pivot bolt but the one above that, the locking bolt.
Looks like a previous owner had left the locking bolt in when the keel was lowered causing the bolt to bend.
In the instruction Manual it says to put a nut on the end of the bolt and tighten. Which was impossible with only one original entrance hole to the Locking Bolt.
I think there must have been some design changes.
There are 2 disks embedded in the fiberglass The Starb'd one has a thread.
I too was told that there is a steel plate in there. There is not, it's just fiberglass. Again this could be a design change.
With a 500lb steel keel in there that's a lot of weight to be supported by just Fbg???
Now with the temperature down from 110 to the 70 I can get back to work.
Happy New Year
I don't like cutting holes into structural parts of a boat until I know what I'm getting into.
Having said that. There was already one hole on the Portside that gave access to the locking Bolt, I finally broke down and cut another 3inch hole on the Starb'd side. Not pivot bolt but the one above that, the locking bolt.
Looks like a previous owner had left the locking bolt in when the keel was lowered causing the bolt to bend.
In the instruction Manual it says to put a nut on the end of the bolt and tighten. Which was impossible with only one original entrance hole to the Locking Bolt.
I think there must have been some design changes.
There are 2 disks embedded in the fiberglass The Starb'd one has a thread.
I too was told that there is a steel plate in there. There is not, it's just fiberglass. Again this could be a design change.
With a 500lb steel keel in there that's a lot of weight to be supported by just Fbg???
Now with the temperature down from 110 to the 70 I can get back to work.
Happy New Year
- Freedom77
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Re: Keel Bolts M 22 1980
HI Drunken...As with all other users of this site, it might be efficacious to let us know what part of the planet you live on. Some of us might be close enough to give you a hand. (provided of course there is enough beer).
We were owned by '71 V222 which was pre hull liner. Everything was easy to get to. Fair Winds and Full Sails...Old Salt
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Curious Sailor
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Re: Keel Bolts M 22 1980
Drunken I was shocked to see that there was no steel plate either. I believe it's a wood core under the fiberglass though.
Try to look at it this way... When you put the shock aside as to how they decided to support the 500 lbs think about the age of the boat. At least in my case this support feature actually worked since 1973...
Amazing stuff!
http://curioussailor.blogspot.com/
Try to look at it this way... When you put the shock aside as to how they decided to support the 500 lbs think about the age of the boat. At least in my case this support feature actually worked since 1973...
Amazing stuff!
http://curioussailor.blogspot.com/
