Replacing the 26M Daggerboard

[mastreb]

Pull the board up 1/2" for every degree the wind is aft of 55 degrees (or -55) to true. That's what your board should be set at.

[Rumdirty]

Thanks gang. You've all been a tremendous help.

[Ixneigh]

(Ixneigh goes sailing with Mastreb)

Is it time to reef?

Ixneigh: ( in the lee scuppers clinging to the wheel) umm yea, maybe.
mastreb: heel is 42and 3/4 degrees! Time to reef!

[mastreb]

Main should be reefed 1" for every half-degree of heel angle beyond 20.

(Just kidding. 1st reef at 15 knots TWS, 2nd reef at 20 knots TWS, 3rd reef (aka go home) at 25 knots.)

[Highlander]

My design for the swing daggerboard, I designed it after a broke my first one. A line running through the leading edge would would hold it in place until it hit something then a jam cleat would release it. I replaced the damaged one, but the old one sits in my garage on my todo list, just need more time and talent.

U could design it say to have the bottom 2/3 of the D/B hinged & locked with a shear pin or bolt , only thing being mast would have to be lowered to remove the D/B for inspection & replace shear pin or shear bolt ! unless water was warm enough & presumably still shallow enough to repin from underneath using snorkeling gear presuming their was no gators or man eating sharks around to keep u company

J
Or have it hinged from the rear with a D/B line attached to the front leading up through the D/B trunk back to the cockpit same as the D/B lift line but tied to a swing release cleat , the D/B joint in front of the hinge would have to be U shaped one end & dove tailed the other end

[Rumdirty]

Sunday night I got an email from Bill at boats4sail offering me a Daggerboard. I thought about it and ended up ordering one from him on Monday. The board came in today. I'll be using the old one as a backup and to learn some fiberglassing skills.

Now that's what I call "outstanding service!"

Just wanted to make sure I gave a shoutout to Bill!

[Russ]

It may come as a surprise to many guys but...
Longer is not better. When it comes to dagger boards. Plus if it was longer it would stick out the top deck when pulled all the way up.

Ix

Or....the dagger would hang below the bottom of the boat if it were longer. You would have to install it after the boat was floating and before the mast stepped.
However, it seems my dagger problem is it doesn't go down all the way, only 3'.

For Rumdirty, Barnegat Bay is very shallow and it's impossible to drop the dagger to the full 5' 9" draft. This will be a constant concern. I would limit the draft to 3' of travel making the boat have a max draft of 4'.

[BOAT]

I have done a little bit of patching up on my factory board. I occasionally catch some sand entering Oceanside Harbor in rough sea if I forget the board is fully extended. Because of the big swells that are always forming in the shallows at the mouth of the harbor it makes the bottom form sand moguls like a ski slope. You can sail between the moguls in almost all cases but every now and then at low tide it's possible to clip the top of one if your in a keel boat or have the dagger board fully extended.

I suppose I should buy a new one also because mine has taken a good beating. I was just going to get the BWY one. I assume the one Bill sent you is the factory stock one, right?

I notice that the racing boats (65 foot ones that are real wide like mastrebs boat), have dual dagger-boards in addition to their kanting keels and their dagger-boards do indeed extend a full 4 feet above the deck of the boat when fully retracted.

I suppose we could do that too, but I'm not so sure more board is really needed. I have often wondered if it would improve performance if we has the ability to adjust the board like a rudder - you know - to turn it slightly. Like a 4 degree adjustment in either direction. I often wonder what that would be like.

[seahouse]

I have often wondered if it would improve performance if we has the ability to adjust the board like a rudder - you know - to turn it slightly. Like a 4 degree adjustment in either direction. I often wonder what that would be like.

I went through that as a mind exercise in the past. I concluded that you could use it to reduce heel at the expense of loss of track (drift to lee). You could then compensate for that with rudder input, with the consequence of increasing drag, and loss of speed.

[BOAT]

Yeah, I'm sure Roger and Mike Inmon have probably already calculated all the implications. It's really is very hard to improve the design of the boat.

[Ixneigh]

4inches more width on the dagger board wouid have helped a lot. With minor impact down below.
Ix

[BOAT]

4inches more width on the dagger board wouid have helped a lot. With minor impact down below.
Ix

Not sure why you say that - there is plenty of room in the head and also in the dinette for a wider board, yet Roger never went to a wider board. He made all kinds of changes to other things over the years but never saw a need to widen the board. I have no academic training about such things and your proposal might be well worth exploring but I'm sure there are dozens of engineers here on site that can crunch the numbers on the M dagger board that (in my humble observation) has its leading edge perfectly balanced in the right place squarely under the mast, (a definite advantage over most other boats with dagger boards that put them slightly behind the mast) - in my mind it's really hard to improve on the engineering specs of the current board. It was an attractive feature to me when I purchased because I had sailed so many dingy and trailer able boats that had their keel-swing keel-centerboard-dagger board-fin-whatever so compromised in position (on the side, behind the mast, or a moving center based on the swing angle) to accommodate trailering or retraction. In that light I would ask that you guys with the engineering education expound on this for us.

What would more 'width' do?

[Russ]

What would more 'width' do?

Work better and allow it to be shallower draft.

Roger's entire product line is pure luck combined with some old fashioned classic design know how. I would be shocked to learn that a computer was ever used or marine engineer was ever consulted in the design process. Tank testing? Maybe a abacus for a few calculations.

The boat works. It does what it's supposed to do fairly well. I believe Roger has a good intuition for what works. It certainly is an extremely safe boat. However I do not believe it is not beyond improving. A longer...wider...more foot in the water fin would make this boat point better. It's also under ruddered. Many have replaced theirs.

The S/D sailed very well. Again, classic design for the win.

--Russ

[Rumdirty]

I suppose I should buy a new one also because mine has taken a good beating. I was just going to get the BWY one. I assume the one Bill sent you is the factory stock one, right?

Sure is. All pretty and white and stuff. Now I gotta scratch it up and put bottom paint on it

[Russ]

I suppose I should buy a new one also because mine has taken a good beating. I was just going to get the BWY one. I assume the one Bill sent you is the factory stock one, right?

Sure is. All pretty and white and stuff. Now I gotta scratch it up and put bottom paint on it

Just need to put paint on the bottom 4' 9" of it. Actually, only the bottom 12" stays wet all the time.