temporary 2nd forestay for jib

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mastreb
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Re: temporary 2nd forestay for jib

Post by mastreb »

Why not use side-by-side fore stays? Then both sails tack without interference.
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kadet
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Re: temporary 2nd forestay for jib

Post by kadet »

jimbo wrote: I am getting geometrically challenged thinking about this.

With the inner stay in place - how to tack the outer sail? The only way I can see to do it is to furl it then pull through to the other tack?

Have I missed something?
Yes you have it is not a permanent rig only flown when needed. Look up the original post on solent rigs. You don't use it with the original head sail flying.
Also on a lot of permanent rigged solents the foremost sail is a light weather sail like a code zero or asym and can be gybbed on the outside or furled and tacked.
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captronr
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Re: temporary 2nd forestay for jib

Post by captronr »

Whenever, which is seldom, that I change sails on my CDI furler, I apply a liberal spray of silicon to the internal halyard "slide plug" or whatever it is called. Makes the thing go up and down much easier................

Ron
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Starscream
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Re: temporary 2nd forestay for jib

Post by Starscream »

I just added a backup forestay since I was a bit concerned about a possible failure of the CDI furler. Plus I hate how hard it is to get the CDI furler pinned into place, and I wanted another way to keep the mast up while trying to get the pin in place. I used to stand at the mast base and push it forward while a second person would pull on the furling drum and try to get it hooked up. Sometimes I would come forward to help by leaning my weight on the drum but I was never really comfortable with this. The idea would be to snap the new backup forestay in place as soon as the mast was raised, so that we could pin the furler in place without worrying about slipping and having the mast come down. I also don't like the position of the pin and the ringding on my CDI: under load it looks like the furler is trying to pull the pin out and the only thing keeping it there is that little ringding. I tape the pin in place now so that the pin is loaded instead of the ringding, but still it bothered me.

I also don't like the CDI attachment bracket, the one that the pin slides through when attaching to the bow deck-fitting. It's a bit hard to explain without photos, but under load the CDI bracket, which is made up of two metal prongs that line up with the bow fitting, would separate a bit and this would make it harder to pin the furler in place the next time. I would use a vice grip to close them up a bit each time I raised the mast, so I am worried about metal fatigue. I feel much better with a backup forestay.

I bought the following:
Ronstan mast hound as recommended on another thread on this forum. RONSTAN Mast Hound Model # 545707 | Mfg # RF146 ($29.75 from WestMarine).
Home Depot adjustable riveter (29.99)
Aluminum Rivets (can't remember the diameter and grip range but will edit this post with that info) ($5.99)
40' of 1/2" marine rope ($25)
Two stainless snap shackles ($17.98)

I drilled the holes in the mast (scary thing to do) and mounted the hound about 18" above the original one. It is important to get the holes positioned right so that the rivets will slide through properly. I riveted the new hound in place, and bowline-knotted the snapshackle on the end of the rope. The other end of the rope also gets a bowline-knotted snapshackle, with the intention being able to snap it on to the bow pulpit in some way. When I bought the material I wasn't really sure how I was going to do this, so I ended up making the decision on the first mast-raising try. I chose to attach the backup forestay to the mast-carrying fitting on the bow pulpit. I left the 9/16 x 4" bolt in place (the one that carries the foot of the mast while trailering) and snapped on to that. I repositioned the bowline to get a light tension in the rope.

Worked like a charm on the first mast-raising experience. Made it much easier to get the furler pin in place, with less worry.

I was concerned about the forestay interfering with the foresail in some way, so I went out on Friday to do some experimenting. The only issue I found so far is that when I try to furl the jib when pointing downwind, the jib can flap out and get caught around the new forestay if the sheets are released too much. In that case I could either pull the jib in a bit to free it up, or go up on the bow to do it manually. There was no problem tacking and jibing in about 8-10 knots(estimated) of wind. 7mph boatspeed by the way...okay, okay, that's only 6 knots but still it felt good.

I can envision a possible scenario where the backup forestay creates a problem: if I ever NEED to furl NOW and I am heading downwind, I might have a problem. At least I am aware of it now and can plan accordingly, although even the best laid plans go awry in a panic situation.
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RobertB
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Re: temporary 2nd forestay for jib

Post by RobertB »

I recommend replacing the aluminium rivets with SS ones, this is a load bearing setup. $1 each as WM - and I hope you bought a lever action rivet gun because otherwise they are a b__ch to pull.
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captronr
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Re: temporary 2nd forestay for jib

Post by captronr »

I also attach the jib halyard to the bow pulpit, partly as a backup forestay and partly to keep it out of the way. I've also had the furler wrap up with the halyard, and have had that happen as well when secured to the mast.

I purchased a johnson lever for the back stay, so I can loosen it to connect the forestay. But I've misplaced it before I could install it. IF/WHEN I find it, I will install it. Should make hookups easier.

Ron
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Starscream
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Re: temporary 2nd forestay for jib

Post by Starscream »

RobertB wrote:I recommend replacing the aluminium rivets with SS ones, this is a load bearing setup. $1 each as WM - and I hope you bought a lever action rivet gun because otherwise they are a b__ch to pull.
Probably a good idea...will do it next time the mast comes down. Hopefully the Al rivets will hold for a few minutes if and when I need them.

I found that it wasn't the backstay causing the problems with connecting the furler, it was the sidestays. Finally I just loosened them one notch. Boat still goes in the 6 knot range so while probably not ideal, for this amateur sailor it seems fine. A Johnson lever is probably just the thing for tuning the rig and I will look into it.
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mastreb
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Re: temporary 2nd forestay for jib

Post by mastreb »

RobertB wrote:I recommend replacing the aluminium rivets with SS ones, this is a load bearing setup. $1 each as WM - and I hope you bought a lever action rivet gun because otherwise they are a b__ch to pull.
They're a b__ch even with a lever action rivet gun.
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Re: temporary 2nd forestay for jib

Post by Globalhobo »

I'm just trying to save this post, so I'm commenting. It's so hard to find posts again... :|
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Re: temporary 2nd forestay for jib

Post by Catigale »

Ill mention this to Heath.

On our Volvo forum we have a 'maintenance log forum' where you just create a thread for your car and then post your work to keep it one place. I use mine to book mark useful threads so that I can find them quickly

Hmmmm
Globalhobo
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Re: temporary 2nd forestay for jib

Post by Globalhobo »

Catigale wrote:Ill mention this to Heath.

On our Volvo forum we have a 'maintenance log forum' where you just create a thread for your car and then post your work to keep it one place. I use mine to book mark useful threads so that I can find them quickly

Hmmmm
That would be so handy!
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