Steering cable changeout to Teleflex
Steering cable changeout to Teleflex
Am needing to replace the Detmar cable, due to water being inside it.
Looking at the 9' long Teleflex. Can anyone who's made this change advise if other than the changed rack, (and hole enlargement ) at the helm, are any other pieces or changes needed to be made at the other end. In particular, does the support tube /bracket, that threads onto the treaded "nut" at the end of the cable covering, need to be changed or modified.
Just trying to understand how difficult this really is, versus just replacing with anther Detmar.
Thanks
Ken
Looking at the 9' long Teleflex. Can anyone who's made this change advise if other than the changed rack, (and hole enlargement ) at the helm, are any other pieces or changes needed to be made at the other end. In particular, does the support tube /bracket, that threads onto the treaded "nut" at the end of the cable covering, need to be changed or modified.
Just trying to understand how difficult this really is, versus just replacing with anther Detmar.
Thanks
Ken
- Sloop John B
- Captain
- Posts: 871
- Joined: Sat Jan 03, 2004 2:45 am
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
- Location: Florida 'Big Bend'. 02x Yamaha T50
Thanks John. Partially dissassembled existing yesterday, and without anything attached the cable is still pretty tight to move. It froze up on me prior to winter shutdown.
I'd read some earlier posts about the Teleflex replacement, seems like it's better to start over, mine has always felt like there is 'grit" somewhere in the system.
Thanks for the advise on the connections at the other end. Didn't want to make this change if it involves a lot of rework at the driven end of the cable.
R
Ken
I'd read some earlier posts about the Teleflex replacement, seems like it's better to start over, mine has always felt like there is 'grit" somewhere in the system.
Thanks for the advise on the connections at the other end. Didn't want to make this change if it involves a lot of rework at the driven end of the cable.
R
Ken
What is the rubber
Also meant to ask, what is the "rubber"
Also, in the 10' version (I haven't measured the exsiting since it's still installed) does this result in too much slack in the berth below, or were you able to get it tied up out of the way.
Extra length seems it may be able to make more gentle bends for sure, so seems like a good idea as long as it's not so long you can't hang it up out of the way of the berth.
Also, in the 10' version (I haven't measured the exsiting since it's still installed) does this result in too much slack in the berth below, or were you able to get it tied up out of the way.
Extra length seems it may be able to make more gentle bends for sure, so seems like a good idea as long as it's not so long you can't hang it up out of the way of the berth.
- dclark
- First Officer
- Posts: 418
- Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2004 10:35 am
- Location: Dave Clark - Orange County, CA - 2000 26X Day Tripper
Your best bet is the Teleflex SS141-10 and the best price I know of is at www.surplusunlimited.com (thank Tim Miller for that tip).
The installation is pretty straight forward. Since you are replacing the factory installed cable, plan on enlarging the hole at the pedestal. Use the template provided. The pedestal is thick - I'd guess 1" of plywood plus a few layers of fiberglass.
You will need to remove the black rubber boot where the cable exits near the rudders. It's packed with sealer (3m 4200 probably) soyou will probably need to cut it out. You will not receive a new one as part of the steering system so you'll need to find one. Anything close will work as long as the cable fits thru it and you can pack it with sealer to keep water out.
Be a little careful when you cut out the pedestal. Keep it centered or slightly lower then centered in relation to the old hole. If you look at your existing rack, you'll see it fits with no room to spare (almost against the top of the pedestal). So if you're hole is too high (even just a little), it will raise the helm which will cause the rack to mount higher and you don't have room for that.
The SS141-10 model is a 10' cable as opposed to the stock 8'. That will give you a wider and smoother arch. Good luck.
The installation is pretty straight forward. Since you are replacing the factory installed cable, plan on enlarging the hole at the pedestal. Use the template provided. The pedestal is thick - I'd guess 1" of plywood plus a few layers of fiberglass.
You will need to remove the black rubber boot where the cable exits near the rudders. It's packed with sealer (3m 4200 probably) soyou will probably need to cut it out. You will not receive a new one as part of the steering system so you'll need to find one. Anything close will work as long as the cable fits thru it and you can pack it with sealer to keep water out.
Be a little careful when you cut out the pedestal. Keep it centered or slightly lower then centered in relation to the old hole. If you look at your existing rack, you'll see it fits with no room to spare (almost against the top of the pedestal). So if you're hole is too high (even just a little), it will raise the helm which will cause the rack to mount higher and you don't have room for that.
The SS141-10 model is a 10' cable as opposed to the stock 8'. That will give you a wider and smoother arch. Good luck.
- dclark
- First Officer
- Posts: 418
- Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2004 10:35 am
- Location: Dave Clark - Orange County, CA - 2000 26X Day Tripper
One last thought...
There are four bolts that attach the rack to the helm. Make sure the gears are engaged as you tighten the bolts. Wiggle the wheel some and make extra sure it's real tight. It doesn't have to loosen much before the gears slip and you start to loose steering control. It's probably a good idea to check them again after the first use.
There are four bolts that attach the rack to the helm. Make sure the gears are engaged as you tighten the bolts. Wiggle the wheel some and make extra sure it's real tight. It doesn't have to loosen much before the gears slip and you start to loose steering control. It's probably a good idea to check them again after the first use.
- dclark
- First Officer
- Posts: 418
- Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2004 10:35 am
- Location: Dave Clark - Orange County, CA - 2000 26X Day Tripper
Check here for help on that black rubber boot:
http://macgregorsailors.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=2692
http://macgregorsailors.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=2692
- PeteC
- First Officer
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- Joined: Tue Mar 02, 2004 7:06 pm
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
- Location: Hampton, VA...2001 Mac 26X, Honda 50
I just put in the Teleflex SS141-10 (thanks to Timm Miller also). I did not lower the hole in the pedestal and the rack just barely fit. In fact I had to angle it slightly to fit. So measure very carefully and leave a little extra room before you do the final cut.
When removing the old cable I noticed the section that slides in the guide tube at the back of the boat had rusted badly. The attachment bracket has the tube angled upward so any rain or seawater gets trapped in the tube. I plan to bend the bracket so water drains out. I also put some marine grease in there to keep water off the stearing cable.
When removing the old cable I noticed the section that slides in the guide tube at the back of the boat had rusted badly. The attachment bracket has the tube angled upward so any rain or seawater gets trapped in the tube. I plan to bend the bracket so water drains out. I also put some marine grease in there to keep water off the stearing cable.
- Sloop John B
- Captain
- Posts: 871
- Joined: Sat Jan 03, 2004 2:45 am
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
- Location: Florida 'Big Bend'. 02x Yamaha T50
Dave is correct.
Keep the bend as gentle as possible, even at the expense of losing good storage room in aft berth. The 'rubber' is just a rubber cap that fits over the top of the rack. When Miller installed his, he didn't have room for it and tossed it. I went just a bit lower with the mount and it just fit.
With the 'template' they send, go ahead and buy a circular saw that matches it and try to get one that's deep enough to get all the way through the pedestal. Like Dave mentioned, it's kinda thick.
It will be all covered up by the black plastic 'cup' that Teleflex sends. Seal the wood inside the hole with something that will prevent it from getting wet.
My rubber boot at the transom wasn't 'glued' or anything. It pops off (hopefully) and goes on the new unit.
Keep the bend as gentle as possible, even at the expense of losing good storage room in aft berth. The 'rubber' is just a rubber cap that fits over the top of the rack. When Miller installed his, he didn't have room for it and tossed it. I went just a bit lower with the mount and it just fit.
With the 'template' they send, go ahead and buy a circular saw that matches it and try to get one that's deep enough to get all the way through the pedestal. Like Dave mentioned, it's kinda thick.
It will be all covered up by the black plastic 'cup' that Teleflex sends. Seal the wood inside the hole with something that will prevent it from getting wet.
My rubber boot at the transom wasn't 'glued' or anything. It pops off (hopefully) and goes on the new unit.
- dclark
- First Officer
- Posts: 418
- Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2004 10:35 am
- Location: Dave Clark - Orange County, CA - 2000 26X Day Tripper
If you can get it out, great! Reuse it. With both mine and Bob Kelley's I ended up cutting it. Maybe with some care, it can be done. It's really just a matter of removing the sealer without destroying the rubber.Sloop John B wrote:Dave is correct.
My rubber boot at the transom wasn't 'glued' or anything. It pops off (hopefully) and goes on the new unit.
ss-141 rack steering
After reading all of the posts I went to the link and ordered the 141 rack steering and was talking to a friend who used to have a 26x and he asked if I ordered the no feed back system and I said no. I just assumed and you no what that means. I have the no feed back drum steering system now but it is so hard to steer with the 15 inch wheel and I dont want a larger wheel so I felt that the rack steering would be much better. But now I am wondering if the clutch for the No feed back system is creating the extra drag on the system. I love being able to set the course and sails and just let go of the wheel and she holds course. I came down from larger boats and I always had an auto pilot before and was amazed that the 26x could hold course( I timed it once for 45 min. )like the full keel boats I had before with out any kind of auto pilot. So I must have the no feed back system. With this 141 can you release the wheel and will it hold course. What kind of feed back do you get with the motor or sailing.
Thanks.
Thanks.

