RobertB wrote:I installed the tiller version of the RayMarine autopilot. Yes, when manual steering, you are pushing the gears. There is no way to disengage unless you go underneath back to the steering setup (and I have installed a quick way to do this). I discussed this with RayMarine and they said this would not be an issue with the mechanism, just add a bit of drag to the wheel steering. Nothing is free.
You put a pull ring on the power arm in there where it connects in that fancy box you created, right?
That box is pretty fancy - was it hard to make? I would be interested in seeing which control head you selected - very nice install!
RobertB wrote:I installed the tiller version of the RayMarine autopilot. Yes, when manual steering, you are pushing the gears. There is no way to disengage unless you go underneath back to the steering setup (and I have installed a quick way to do this). I discussed this with RayMarine and they said this would not be an issue with the mechanism, just add a bit of drag to the wheel steering. Nothing is free.
What is your quick way?
I really like the installation you have there. What is that clamping it to the steering bar?
My thought was to do something like that allowing it to slide freely. Then use a pin to lock the AP arm.
Here
Then use a 12v power lock solenoid to engage a locking pin
Sounds like a cool idea - I would like to see the details developed. I made my mount with no mods to the actual steering mechanism so I could change later if it does not work.
My connection is as follows:
two pieces of 3/4 inch thick PVC, clamped together and then drilled a 1 inch hole - to make a clamp. The bottom has another piece of PVC with the actuator post mounted. Had to cut threads on the post to do this. All held together with two stainless steel plates. I have a quick release pin mounted thru the plates above the actuator mount to prevent it bouncing off. If we need to disconnect, pull the pin and lift off the actuator.
So you got the button control head - Matt said that he wanted the rotary knob control head so he could 'steer' the boat from the control head - do you think that is a good idea?
RobertB wrote:Sounds like a cool idea - I would like to see the details developed. I made my mount with no mods to the actual steering mechanism so I could change later if it does not work.
My connection is as follows:
two pieces of 3/4 inch thick PVC, clamped together and then drilled a 1 inch hole - to make a clamp. The bottom has another piece of PVC with the actuator post mounted. Had to cut threads on the post to do this. All held together with two stainless steel plates. I have a quick release pin mounted thru the plates above the actuator mount to prevent it bouncing off. If we need to disconnect, pull the pin and lift off the actuator.
It looks REALLY nice. Very professional looking. More so than factory hardware.
You've given me lots of ideas with this. I just wish I was as good with fabrication as you guys.
Okay, so now I'm thinking of stealing your plate attachment and allow it to travel free with a hole for a pin. Then insert a snap clip inside the connection bar with some way to release the snap clip internally. Gotta work this out.
Maybe have a solenoid pull the snap clip to allow the bar to move freely. Reverse the solenoid and snap clip engages the AP plate.
RobertB wrote:Sounds like a cool idea - I would like to see the details developed. I made my mount with no mods to the actual steering mechanism so I could change later if it does not work.
My connection is as follows:
two pieces of 3/4 inch thick PVC, clamped together and then drilled a 1 inch hole - to make a clamp. The bottom has another piece of PVC with the actuator post mounted. Had to cut threads on the post to do this. All held together with two stainless steel plates. I have a quick release pin mounted thru the plates above the actuator mount to prevent it bouncing off. If we need to disconnect, pull the pin and lift off the actuator.
It looks REALLY nice. Very professional looking. More so than factory hardware.
You've given me lots of ideas with this. I just wish I was as good with fabrication as you guys.
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Russ, the way I would do it is to replace the PVC between the top six bolts with ROLLERS. That way the clamp block would roll easily across the rudder steering tie arm.
Where you pointed to those six bolts with your red arrow? Replace the PVC between the plates with rolling ROLLERS so the whole clamp box can roll smoothly across the arm when your steering. Then mount your solenoid in the clamp box so it triggers a pin to go into the hole LUNA made in the plate - Just mount the solenoid so that part of is is on a spring so it will snap into the hole when you turn the wheel searching for the hole from up at the helm. When you find the hole the pin will just snap right in because of the spring pressure.
BOAT wrote:
Russ, the way I would do it is to replace the PVC between the top six bolts with ROLLERS. That way the clamp block would roll easily across the rudder steering tie arm.
Where you pointed to those six bolts with your red arrow? Replace the PVC between the plates with rolling ROLLERS so the whole clamp box can roll smoothly across the arm when your steering. Then mount your solenoid in the clamp box so it triggers a pin to go into the hole LUNA made in the plate - Just mount the solenoid so that part of is is on a spring so it will snap into the hole when you turn the wheel searching for the hole from up at the helm. When you find the hole the pin will just snap right in because of the spring pressure.
Hmm... clever idea. Now to come up with a contraption to engage a spring loaded pin via solenoid.
This might make a good winter project.
Of course if Vic can bring his to market, I'd rather have his. It looks so much nicer and simpler.
I might be able to help with that if I knew what the solenoid looked like - what choices are there - it does not need to be a big or beefy solenoid - only the pin needs to be strong.
I was just going to rig up a pull string or use a choke cable but i guess a solenoid is okay as long as it's not too heavy or bulky.
The problem with the "pin" locking arrangement as I see it, is that the steering arm clamp is free to rock in an aft/for motion for a least a few degrees which may make the lining up of a pin touch and go. A small slot would be ok tho I guess.
stuendan wrote:The problem with the "pin" locking arrangement as I see it, is that the steering arm clamp is free to rock in an aft/for motion for a least a few degrees which may make the lining up of a pin touch and go. A small slot would be ok tho I guess.
No, your right stuendan, I missed it - the more I think about it the more I realize the whole roller idea will not work for the very reason you have cited. Your engineering intuition is better.
The whole reason LUNA's 'clamp block' works is because it's 'CLAMPED' to the steering tie arm - if the clamp is loose it will swing up in front of the tie arm or behind it.
Tiller Pilot, been there done that, works well no fancy clamp just regular Raymarine extender
I actually like the dampening effect of the gears so never disconnect it.
kadet wrote:Tiller Pilot, been there done that, works well no fancy clamp just regular Raymarine extender
I actually like the dampening effect of the gears so never disconnect it.
Ahh, KADET! There you are! We have been waiting for your insight. As the inventor of this device you have some knowledge we would appreciate.
Number one, there is just no point at all to ever disconnecting the drive ever? Could it really be that easy? Will I notice a big difference on the helm?
Number two, what would you think of using the rotary control head over the button control head? Would it be easier to 'steer by AP' using a rotary knob opposed to the button one?
The later question would help in selecting the right control head.
Thanks Greatly for your idea on how to mount one of these! (And I hope it's not too early over there where the wallaby creatures live).
It is stiffer, but after a couple of goes you don't even notice it, like going back to an old car without power steering. In my case I had a fair amount of slack in the factory wheel helm that caused the boat to wander all over the place under power. I use to whine that it had a 1/4 turn of slack in reality it was probably 3-4cm but it was still very annoying. Leaving the tiller pilot connected stops the steering wa2ndering. The one issue I am concerned about was drilling the rudder bar for the extender, on a beat to windward there is up to 80kg of force that can be applied by the tiller actuator and I thought the bar might bend or fail at the drill point. It does flex slightly but nothing yet. I suppose in time metal fatigue might cause the drill hole to crack but nothing as yet.
I have the i70 push button control head, have no issue with it. Never used a rotary one so don't know.
Last edited by kadet on Sat Dec 06, 2014 5:27 pm, edited 1 time in total.
stuendan wrote:The problem with the "pin" locking arrangement as I see it, is that the steering arm clamp is free to rock in an aft/for motion for a least a few degrees which may make the lining up of a pin touch and go. A small slot would be ok tho I guess.
A slot. That might work. Or some way to keep it aligned. I like the slot idea.
If the connect bar were thick, a groove around it might provide a means to creat a lock mechanism.
Need to think on this. I still like that plate connector. His pill ring is a nice failsafe.
Kadet, I just don't like the idea of forcing the gears.
I missed it 
- the more I think about it the more I realize the whole roller idea will not work for the very reason you have cited. 
Your engineering intuition is better.
