Removable goal-posts

[Starscream]

I should be picking up the new trailer this week.

It's about four feet longer than stock, with dual axles and four electric brakes, and some custom features. A few of things we did that I think I like are:

1) Removable side-bunks instead of goalposts. It has always been a nightmare to retrieve in a crosswind without a dock, so we came up with the idea of using 10' side bunks which are individually removable. The bunks have a small ring welded in to the forward support and another ring in the V to which I can simply add a cord for additional guidance, if necessary. With the upwind bunk removed I am hoping that the geometry of only having a downwind bunk will allow me to approach the trailer like I approach a dock. My problem has always been threading through the goalposts while crabbing to counter the wind and current, and then quickly trying to point straight to hit the nose V while not being blown off or cracking the goalpost...a complete nightmare in some cases. Once I thought I would be smart and submerge the goalposts but that didn't work at all...scraaaatch. With only a downwind goalpost or bunk, I can use a more angled approch path, using the wind to help push me up against the downwind bunk. At least that's the theory.
2) Extended the trailer by four feet. The bunks in the non-extended portion of the trailer match the original bunks exactly, where other posters here have explained that the hull is reinforced on the inside. From the last transverse bunk to the back of the extended trailer, we used fore-and-aft running bunks to distribute the load on the non-reinforced sections of the hull.
3) Added an additional trailer plug to the back of the trailer so that a removable light can be added to the back of the motor. In some jurisdicitons I believe that the rear-most element must be a red flag in the day or a red light at night...although I can't find the original reference to that requirement it just makes sense. We also added a set of red lights across the rearmost element of the trailer: also a legal requirement for trailers as wide as ours in several jurisdictions.

Trailer was $4,200 CDN. A bit expensive, I know, when compared to US pricing, but we pay more for everything up here. I'll post photos when I take possession.

[RobertB]

I believe your point about an additional light is valid. I have also read that the rear most part of the load must be marked - at night with a light. I too added a plug and made a light set that we strap to the end of the mast since this is the most aft item. I like that it discourages truckers from tailgating since it is at their eye level.

[Tomfoolery]

I like the idea of a removable goal post, but I've found that if the goal posts are strong enough, all I have to do is get the bow between them, and from there it's a cinch, even with wind and current, since the engine thrust can be directed.

3) Added an additional trailer plug to the back of the trailer so that a removable light can be added to the back of the motor. In some jurisdicitons I believe that the rear-most element must be a red flag in the day or a red light at night...although I can't find the original reference to that requirement it just makes sense. We also added a set of red lights across the rearmost element of the trailer: also a legal requirement for trailers as wide as ours in several jurisdictions.

It's a Federal DOT and Transport Canada requirement. Three red ID lights in the rear, 6-12" spacing, centered, for trailers over 80" wide. Separate clearance lights (red) in the rear - separate from tail and stop/turn, plus forward facing amber clearance lights ( at the widest part, front and rear). Plus the usual array of side markers, reflectors, etc., but trailers over 30 ft in length are supposed to have intermediate amber side markers.

I put a separate light bar on my OB's lower unit, for highway, night, and foul weather travel. Stop/turn/tail/side marker in cheap-o Harbor Freight sealed LED units. Right in the faces of folks behind me. Lights on the trailer are also legal (and submersible), especially when it's empty. The overhang is so long behind the trailer that additional lighting (single red at least) is required, but I believe that aspect depends on the State or Province.

[March]

Helpful, easy mod to the trailer: run two ropes inside PVC tubes from the "whiskers" of the trailer all the way to the posts. That makes an enclosure that will guide the boat straight to the trailer winch. Even if you get onto the trailer at a slight angle, the "corral" will guide you all the way in.

There are several mod pics in this respect. This is one of the most helpful mods, it works really well, and it's under $50 in parts.

When trailering, I have added an extra strap from the lateral tubes, across the cabin, to prevent the "corral" from bouncing excessively.

Come to think of it, you may even add lights to the PVC tubes and run the wires inside. At the very least, you could put some colorful stickers on them.

[Tomfoolery]

Helpful, easy mod to the trailer: run two ropes inside PVC tubes from the "whiskers" of the trailer all the way to the posts. That makes an enclosure that will guide the boat straight to the trailer winch. Even if you get onto the trailer at a slight angle, the "corral" will guide you all the way in.

Like this?





I only put them on for loading, and only if I think they'll be needed, and a rolling hitch allows quick tightening once on.