Lines led aft

[Billy]

A question for those who have their lines led aft and trailer. Did you attach your turning blocks to the base of the mast or to the cabin top plate? How do you handle the lines when transporting with the mast down? Trying to learn from others, before I do something else stupid. Thanks!

[TC]

I also have an 01X. If I understand you correctly, my turning blocks are at the base of the mast and the lines stow with the mast when trailering.

[mark,97x]

blocks mounted on base of mast,and just clip halyards to baby stays from mast raising system and leave everything together when trailering,send me a P.M. with your e-mail and will send some pics of set up

[Sloop John B]

I'd recommend two turning blocks. Get the mast up and run the halyard down where it won't get fouled by the spreader, baby stays, original cleat, and vang bail. Then mark where it is, low on the mast for your first turn.

Your next turn can be right above the centerboard pennet block. Bolts are about 1 and half inches apart. You'll find a cheek block in sailnet that's flat on the bottom and fits over the existing block exactly. Just a longer bolt or two and no drilling. You'll find the two nuts covers in the cabin. Stick an extended 3/8 inch socket up in there and turn clockwise. Have your mate up top to sit on the other end so it doesn't just turn in circles without advancing downward on the threads.

Order a rope clutch. Stick this in line with the starboard side of your foresail winch somewhere over the top of the can. Drill a 1/4 inch hole right through the deck and right through the inner liner into the can. Drop a bolt through the rope clutch and down into the can. Stick the drill into the other hole on the clutch and down you go. Get a 7/8 circle saw and a couple plugs the same size at Home Depot. Fender washers, nuts and bolts and a little 5200.

You will find that the main halyard that came with the boat is long enough. Just enough. When you derig, open the clutch and cast out the halyard, out through the new blocks and cleat it to the black plastic cleat on the mast like you used to. Run your centerboard pennet through your new rope clutch and clonk it locked, then run it around the winch three times and run it through the stock sheet cam cleat. Say a little prayer to St. Francis that your centerboard doesn't go clunk down on the blacktop and you're pretty much covered for that possibility.

[Graham Carr]

I mounted two turning blocks. The first is mounted at the base of the mast on the starboard side and it remains there while towing. The second is a double block mounted on the forward stanchion post. The double is used for the halyard and a downhaul. I like this system because it keeps the halyard off the cabin top. The halyard leads aft to a rope clutch. I coil and secure the halyard to the mast for towing.

Westmarine links
Mastbase Lead Blocks
Stanchion Block Accessories (Ball and socket bases allow blocks to articulate)
Rope Clutches

This is a photo of the stanchion block.


Graham Carr

[Graham Carr]

Sorry the photo did not post. If you would like to see the photo of the block, just go to my web site and navigate to the completed mod area.
I see the links did not work either but I do have them with the photo in the website
Graham Carr

[macsailor]

had a buddy that works in a welding shop bend me a piece of stainless. Mounted a double block to it. It bolts to the mast base with the long bolt that bolts the mast, and a shorter bolt throught the front hole Works like a charm I dont trailor much now, but when I did I left the lines on. Leave the jib halyard on yet to tie the furler to the mast when I do trailor, but take off the main Not sure why, but always have. Hope this helps. with only 9 days left till launch..Jim in Canada....

[ALX357]

have you got a top-side picture showing the clutch positioning and routing of the halyard after the stanchion-blocks. ?

[Graham Carr]

The green line is only for demonstrating how the halyard would run.


West Marine links

Mast base lead blocks
Ball and socket bases This allows the block to articulate (use part #061)
Rope clutches

[Frank C]

There are dozens of ways to skin this cat. Sloop JB described something like this for the aft-turning block. For a starboard main halyard and centerboard line, run the halyard to the lower cheekblock, CB line above. I reeve the lines for each mast-raising.



I particularly like the fact that cheek blocks on the hatch rails have two big advantages .... no need for new holes thru the deck, and avoids lines crossing or centered along the fore-aft walking lane.

[ALX357]

In Graham's photo... I believe it is a case of not using the lines-led-aft at the same time as the baby-stays are attached.... I have always left the baby-stays attached, mast up or down, as just one less thing to deal with in rigging. This option of the stanchion-mounted blocks really appeals to me, except for the baby-stay interference. I looked at the mast and stanchion real carefully today and can't see any other way to run the line between. I would have to rig snap-shackles connections for the baby-stays to the mast tangs because i dislike having to use tools to rig or unrig the boat. Can't see that quick-pins could be used there for the outward pulling forces against the rings or washers ...

[Greg]

I looked at Boat US for the cheek blocks and had no success. Anyone have Manufacturer and model to match the factory blocks?
Also feedback on the different types of cleats would be helpful.

Thanks,
Greg

[Moe]

I've looked and not found them at Harken, Garhauer, Holt, Ronstan, Wichard, Lewmar or Schaefer. Mine have no name, 1-1/2" fastener spacing, and a 1-3/8" sheave.
--
Moe

[midget]

Greg--I got a factory block from (surprise!) Macgregor. Cheap too, only $11 if I remember right. I just called 'em (forgot the #) asked for parts, and talked to Bill (I think). Very easy. Good luck