Need Answers about an '88 Mac

[Remac Man]

Hi , I am a new member and I found a 1988 Mac 26D I am considering buying? I thought I wanted an a Mac S because of the swing keel, as opposed to the Dagger board. Wondering just how problematic the D is compared to the Mac S ? Running aground damaging dagger board, boat or even safety of people on board with a sudden stop? I guess I can sail with the board up in questionable waters, but I just want some input from you experienced Mac owners. How would the boat sail with the board up, if I am in a shallow lake?
Second Question: This particular boat comes with wheel steering, not a tiller handle?? I did not know they built them this way in 1988? What would be the pros and cons of wheel steering on this boat?

Thanks for your Council!
Remac Man

[NavySailor]

I guess the answer is, it depends.

Are you going to be sailing somewhere where you are going to be in a lot of shallow water? I sail in the Potomac River, south of DC, I have a swing keel because unless you are in the channel the depth can go from 8' to 2' pretty quick.

[Tomfoolery]

Second Question: This particular boat comes with wheel steering, not a tiller handle?? I did not know they built them this way in 1988? What would be the pros and cons of wheel steering on this boat?

I didn't think either the D or the S had a wheel steering option, but an aftermarket pedestal and wheel could have been added. Merriman/Yacht Specialties made such a system, often equipped with a push/pull cable to an external rudder. I have one sitting in my garage, in fact, with a 20" destroyer wheel, that I took off an Aquarius I used to have.

A small, higher performance boat like those Mac are better served with a tiller, IMO. Better feel. Like you're more 'one with the boat', with one hand on the tiller and the other on the main sheet, at least in light air. More room in the cockpit, too. Tiller type autohelm units are cheaper than wheel units, too.

[SENCMac26x]

The one thing I didn't liked about the tiller (that I like with my wheel) is you could never just take your hand off the tiller without lashing it down or using a tamer....the second you're not applying torque to it, it goes crazy.

I like the fact now I'm not having to do the cross cockpit stretch to adjust sheets, grab a drink, etc.

[JohnWood]

I thought that I would prefer a 26D to a 26S. The D has a bit more lateral resistance area and is a little bit faster. A great deal came along for a 26S, so I grabbed it. I'm glad I did. My kids like to explore islands, and in doing so, I'm bumping the sandy bottom all the time. This might be a big problem if I had a daggerboard. Another thing to consider: I am pretty sure that replacement daggerboards are no longer being made for the 26Ds. If you break on, you have to build a new one yourself.

Also, the 26D was certainly a tiller boat. Any wheel was a retrofit. My preference is definitely for tillers over wheels, but to each his own.

[Remac Man]

Great answers and replys guys! I see many happy owners of the 26d on this board. Great info for me to ponder. Thanks again!

[budgates]

I thought I wanted an S but when this D came along I couldn't resist. I haven't been sorry.

For what it's worth here is why Macgregor says they went back to the daggerboard for the M.

Why Macgregor 26M Went Back to a Daggerboard

A DAGGERBOARD HAS REPLACED THE CENTERBOARD
Better performance is the big reason for the change. Here are a lot more reasons.

1. LESS INTERFERENCE WITH THE INTERIOR
A centerboard trunk presents a 16" high problem from the mast almost back to the steps. Unfortunately, this ridge dominates the interior plan, and made it essential to bring the seating structure on one side out beyond the centerline. This forces a dinette type of configuration, which makes it more difficult to have a good conversational type seating for a bunch of crew members. It also reduced the interior floor space (and thus moving around space) by a significant margin. The daggerboard trunk, which is partially hidden by the galley, eliminated these problems.

2. IMPROVED STRUCTURE
The daggerboard trunk takes the full downward thrust of the mast to the keel of the boat.
The daggerboard requires a much smaller opening in the hull, which helps reduce drag and keep structural weight down.

3. NO ELECTROLYSIS OR LEAKS
The daggerboard requires no metallic parts below the waterline. There are no holes in the hull to leak, or pins to wear.

4. EASIER MAINTENANCE
The retraction cable is less subject to wear, and it can be easily replaced. The board itself can be lifted out through the deck for cleaning, inspection or repair. Removal of a centerboard is a tougher job.

5. QUIETER AT AN ANCHORAGE.
Daggerboards are a lot quieter and subject to less wear when the boat is moored or at anchor.

6. THE BOAT CAN SAIL WELL TO WEATHER WITH THE BOARD PARTIALLY RETRACTED.
With a centerboard partially down, the center of pressure moves aft, and the boat gets a lee helm when sailed into the wind. With the daggerboard partially down, the fore and aft center of pressure does not change, and the boat continues to balance well. This helps when trying to sail the boat to windward in shallow water.
For reaching, the daggerboard can be partially retracted to kill off weather helm, in the same manner as the centerboard. When reaching, you do not need the full lifting power of the board, and the partially retracted board works fine.
The down side, of course, is that if you hit something, the boat will come to a stop, just like any other keel boat in the marina. At normal sailing speeds, there should be no problem. The board is strong, and the hull is stronger. Don’t, however, leave it down when powering fast.

[mastreb]

The only disadvantage to daggerboards is the likelihood of damage from running aground. Many on this forum have broken their daggerboards, but they are easily repaired and easily replaced. I've run aground three times with no consequential damage.

I view the consequence to floorplan argument from MacGregor with some skepticism as well, because the daggerboard trunk totally dominates the layout of the 26M. It splits the cabin into quarters, and necessitates the smaller cockpit vs. the X.

[Russ]

Shallow water sailors would much prefer the swing keel. You can have good performance and wetted surface of the keel without fully deploying it, whereas the dagger does not. And as mentioned, the dagger can ground much easier. I'm sure BWY is enjoying the aftermarket sales of daggerboards.

I do agree with less metal hardware below the water line. That seems to be a common failure point.

I wish the dagger was longer. I've tried to think of how to fabricate a longer one. Install it once the boat is launched and allow a couple of feet stick out all the time. Lower it down deep when needed.

[dlandersson]

Nice point - I really don't like the M's smaller cockpit.

How is the cockpit size of the 26S and 26D? 26S bigger?

The only disadvantage to daggerboards is the likelihood of damage from running aground. Many on this forum have broken their daggerboards, but they are easily repaired and easily replaced. I've run aground three times with no consequential damage.

I view the consequence to floorplan argument from MacGregor with some skepticism as well, because the daggerboard trunk totally dominates the layout of the 26M. It splits the cabin into quarters, and necessitates the smaller cockpit vs. the X.

[Hamin' X]

Blue Water Yachts carries replacement dagger boards for both 26D and 26M.

~Rich

[Steve K]

Ds nor Ss were built with a wheel. I have seen conversions. I much prefer a tiller........... one reason I sold my X and got a D. This is individual preference however. For me, a tiller provides better feedback and is much simpler to maintain. I also prefer a tiller extension and tiller lock when single handing. I can steer from anywhere in the cockpit (like up by the winches and I like sitting forward, when sailing anyway).

A tiller boat will sail very nicely, without a hand on the tiller, if set up well. I do it all the time. Heavier breezes does require a tiller lock, but there are some really good, simple and easy to operate tiller locks out there.

https://app.box.com/shared/t749sfc1t4
Sat on the bow for several miles, taking pictures that day.

The boat looses pointing ability with daggerboard retracted (but so does a swing keel). It can be raised to a point and on a run, completely.

Hit a submerged mountain peak, very hard once. There was no damage to the boat and little to the daggerboard. (chewed up the bottom one foot pretty good) The hit was, of course, a shock to myself & crew as the whole boat shuddered and seemed to jump right out of the water. We were doing about full speed. No harm to anyone on the boat though.

Depth sounder is important Get one, make sure it's working and keep an eye on it in shallows. Keep six feet of water between you and the bottom.

If shallows are grassy, you will have to retract the board occasionally, to get the grass to release, where a centerboard will swing back enough on it's own to release the seaweed. But this is incidental.

Best Breezes,
Steve K.

[budgates]

Regarding the tiller lock, an easy way to hold the tiller is to loosly wrap a few turns of line around the tiller and tie the ends off to each side of the cockpit. Then adjust the line so that when is in it's relaxed state the tiller works like normal but pulls tight when you slide the coils foreward. Keep the line loose for normal steering but when you want the tiller held in place simply slide the coils foreward until the line is snug. Very simple and it works great.

[mastreb]

Tiller autopilots are cheap and easy to install as well--just $500 or so new.

[Kokani]

Ive had an 89 26d and have no incidents aftr 25 years for going aground in shalli+ow water but you should inspect the condition of the daggerboard taking it out.

2 years ago under a 7 ft wave swell because of the load of the waves and the age my daggerboard splitted in 2 halves and lost one part, and latter the other half ( i discovered this when i tried tu pull up the board to load the boat on the trailer and ended pushing the board out thru the bottom).

I had to build a new one so far with no problems but i recomend to all to check your boards at least once a year. specially if you sail in the coast

Regards