installing new front windows

[aikensc]

I'm installing new front windows in our 2000 26X. However, when I went to place them in the window frames of the cabin I noted that the new factory windows are flat, but the window frames have a slight convex curvature! I'll have to bend them during installation. Any advice? Can I bend them then when inserting the screws? Thanks for the advice! Jim

[NiceAft]

Did you purchase the windows from Blue Water Yachts? If yes, or, even if no, ask them the question. They are good people.

[Egress]

I own a 99X and got my windows from BWY. The windows already had slight preshaping. A good tip is get some black 3m flex sealant and although is expensive will not crack or leak long term. I live in las vegas and the windows get extemely hot in the intense sun and on 1st install used high quality window caulk big mistake. Leaked after a year had to remove sand clean etc. and redo. Lesson learned. Also make sure to use plenty of tape around all edges and dry fit first. You also may want to investigate using longer screws as I found this was easier but up to you. I don't use the inside buttons as we hang curtains from the longer screws. Anyway hope this helps. BTW be very careful with caulk because
the fiberglass deck really flexes considerably when you you walk on the bow in front of the mast which is why you need the permamemt
flexibilty of the 3m caulk. Would reccommend you use the 7 day dry time stuff. Good luck..

[NiceAft]

Egress might be referring to 3M 5200.

[Egress]

Yup that's the stuff. Couldn't remember the number and was 2 lazy 2 look it up. Thanks.
Think you have to special order black as only white is available in stock in stores.

[NiceAft]

aikensc,

Based upon what Egres posted, if you purchase the 5200, be certain not to get the “FAST CURE 5200”.

Ray

[Tomfoolery]

Hunter uses Dow Corning 795 silicone building sealant. This is the stuff often used to glue glass into curtain wall panels on high-rise buildings. I'll check the number, and correct if wrong. I have some left over from when I bought a case of it to do 'glass' replacement in my Hunter.

One thing both Hunter and Dow warned about, is that you MUST use a solvent to clean the old surfaces the best you possibly can. Do it right, and it'll last a decade in the sun. Do it wrong, and it'll leak, sooner rather than later. But it really adheres well, can be softened with silicone solvent, is soft and flexible, and comes in black.

And I agree, use masking tape to make very neat lines, as once that stuff gets on the plastic, it can be tough to clean when you're trying to get the port in place and don't have time to mess with it. Cure time is rather long for 795, though, so screws or tape is required.

[Steve K]

Please read this first

http://thecoastalpassage.com/windows.html

I've had trouble with Mac windows as long as I've owned Macs (Both X and D)

First 5200 in not flexible enough when cured for windows and things will leak eventually (MHO)

Factory used Dow Corning #795 builder sealant. (I checked)
Rudder Craft also instructs to use the #795 for their replacement windows.

I also used the 3M 4991 tape as in the article in the link.
I did this a few months ago and the boat has been sitting in the high desert sun, rain and temperature ranges of from 20 to 86 degrees all winter. No leaks and best of all no cracks This was a real problem with the D boat.

To me, the tape is the key, because it hold evenly, all the way around the window..... not just a few pressure points from the screws. This tape is what holds on the trim on most modern autos etc. Tough stuff and has an expansion flexibility of 50%, so the different expansion/contraction rates of the fiberglass and plexiglass is not a problem.

I'm VERY happy with this method of window replacement and doubt I will need to do it again. Last time I replaced the windows, it only lasted a few years and the first one cracked within a few months.
Also
One of the best things about doing it this way (using the 4991 tape). You don't have the mess and un-even seating, as when using sealant alone. No nee to use two rolls of masking tape to hold things together while the sealant sets. You stick the windows on with the tape, mask the edges of them and the fiberglass around them and then shoot in a bead of sealant. Pull off the tape and have a near perfect looking installation. The screws become secondary and can actually be put in later and just snugged (with a little sealant around them).

Make sure you get ALL old sealant off the window openings I primed the fiberglass around the openings, but I didn't prime the window itself. I just scuffed the edge, where the tape was going, with a green scrubby pad. (got that from the installation .pdf for the tape itself).

This is, by far, the best way to replace these plexi windows I've found
In the article, he is working on a steel boat, so prep is not as laborious, but do make sure that all old sealant is gone. I don't think you need to prime the fiberglass as long as it is clean and slightly scuffed up where the tape/sealant joint is. I mainly primed the D boat in this area because the windows are much larger than the openings and the white fiberglass showed through them.

The 3M 4991 tape and the Dow 795 can be had on Amazon for the best price I found. It's not cheap, but is the best way to go.

Best Breezes,
Steve K.

[Tomfoolery]

. The screws become secondary and can actually be put in later and just snugged (with a little sealant around them).

My Hunter had screws also, but later models didn't even bother with the screws. The factory told me they were only there to hold the plexi until the 795 cured, and that they weight them down now instead, with even pressure all the way around, until the sealant is cured enough.

[Steve K]

Hunter and a few others do it this way. Many high end boats now use no screws for mounting plexi windows.
Really, the only reason I used the screws is because the windows were pre-drilled for them. I thought about just putting a little sealant in the holes and forget the screws altogether. The tape really holds the windows well.
I actually think the tape alone would be fine, but I used the 795 sealant, just for insurance anyway.

BB,
SK

[Ixneigh]

Thanks for that quick how too. My M windows are all full of those little sparkles from the sun here in fl. When I do replace them I might use thicker plastic, and the methods outlined.
Ix

[Steve K]

I forgot an important item...............
The windows should be installed in a shaded area. This is in the instructions for the #795 sealant. Keep them shaded for the first 24 hours. After that, no worries
I had shade on one side of the boat only. So for the other side I hung a tarp from the mast (in trailing position) to a nearby wall.

Best Breezes,
Steve K.

[Dimitri-2000X-Tampa]

Great detailed tips there Steve! My 2000 model still has the original windows and they are very crazed for sure but I figure if I replace them, the new ones will just craze again in the hot Florida sun in a small amount of time. I've only had leaks on one window..which is the side one in the 26X head area. And this was caused by me because I ran wires from my stereo and TV system in this area and it pushed out the window a bit. Now it leaks so I've just used some black silicone to seal it better without trying to reinstall it (ie. doing the job the proper way). But alas, the leak slowed down but did not stop, so I guess I'll go put some more goop on it.

[Steve K]

Great detailed tips there Steve! My 2000 model still has the original windows and they are very crazed for sure but I figure if I replace them, the new ones will just craze again in the hot Florida sun in a small amount of time. I've only had leaks on one window..which is the side one in the 26X head area. And this was caused by me because I ran wires from my stereo and TV system in this area and it pushed out the window a bit. Now it leaks so I've just used some black silicone to seal it better without trying to reinstall it (ie. doing the job the proper way). But alas, the leak slowed down but did not stop, so I guess I'll go put some more goop on it.

Yep..... sometimes it's just better to try a small repair and live with the result, than to do a whole project.

I'm hoping to finally get a cover for my D boat this year. I live in a very intense sun area myself and it is hard on the boat.
I'm looking at the cover from The Sail Warehouse (about $800+ shipping and sales tax, since I live in the same state).
It's pricy, but a lot cheaper than building a garage, right? I think it will keep some of the desert, blowing dirt out of the boat too. Maybe I'll even be able to keep all the stuff in the boat instead of storing it in my garage. Now, I pretty much have to strip everything from inside the boat and store elsewhere, to keep it in good shape.

Best Breezes,
Steve K.

[Dimitri-2000X-Tampa]

Yea, if mine was in newish condition, I might consider a cover too...but seeing as its already been in the sun for 14 years and has oxidized gelcoat, etc...why bother I suppose if I ever wanted to invest in restoring the finish (not sure I can bring it back to new condition though), then a cover might be worth it .. but it would need to be somewhat customized to the boat and be able to be put on and taken off rather quickly seeing as there is already so much else to do to get the boat ready.