Thoughts on Powering a 26X

[kelseydo]

My 96X came with the bullet proof Nissan 50 HP three carb two stroke. I loved the little Nissan and found it to be reliable and efficiently sipped gas at hull speed. The lowest elevation I’ve had the boat on is about 4500 MSL. With the boat stripped clean, partial fuel, and just me and the Lab she would climb up on top and was a lot of fun. Who boats stripped down? I usually go out for at least three days and sometimes more so seldom ran the throttle wide open as it would not climb on top really sucked the gas. The old Nissan was starting to show signs of corrosion so I used that as an excuse to re-power.
I started my search for a new motor at 50 HP and up. When I came to realization that the X is a barge and not a speed boat 50 HP was dropped from the list. I’ve done enough playing to realize the X is very sensitive to weight in the aft so that was another strike against the 4 strokes. I’m also dreaming of a 6 – 9 month trip from Seattle to Glacier Bay and back and do not want the mess with changing oil which can be tedious with the 4 strokes. In the case of the two strokes the 70 HP power heads are detuned 90s and share the same weight. The 90s averaged $500 more than the 70s so dropping the 70 from the list was a no brainer.
There are not a lot of 2 stroke builders left and I ended up with an Evenrude ETEC 90. It came with a stainless steel upgrade on the 13” pitch by 14” diameter prop. The installer demonstrated to me the robustness of the X’s transom by comparing to other new boats on the lot with larger engine combinations. He talked me out of adding additional re-enforcement. The 13” pitch prop does not make recommended RPM but is smoother, faster, and more efficient than the 11” that did make recommended RPM (I now carry it as a spare). I networked the motor to a Lowrance HDS 5” second generation chart plotter and fish finder. The combination synced up with no fuss and gives all the info a motor geek could want. My performance numbers are similar to others posts on this site so will not repeat them. By the way there is definitely prop walk with the 14” prop (end of debate as to whether or not an outboard prop walks), now just need to learn to use it.
My recommendation is to treat an X as a sailboat and limit engine selection to about 20 HP. Or - if you a willing to accept considerable more fuel consumption (I used as much fuel this season as the three previous seasons combined – what can I say, it’s fun) and decreased sailing performance by adding weight aft then go for 70 – 90 HP (I never claimed to be a sailor). Do not waste any money on engines greater than 20 HP or less than 70 HP.
Happy New Year,
Dan

[bartmac]

So far 15hp 4 stroke has been enough for our limited river expeditions,with a high thrust prop will easily push heavily laden Macx to hull speed with revs to spare ie going beyond 60% appears wasted (we also allways run with ballast in)Then again with our usage usually 7 days plus time has not been an issue and will wait to travel with wind and tide

[Herschel]

I am in the midst of repowering, too. My 1998 50 HP Mercury BF finally threw a bearing and, according to my mechanic, is not worth the rebuild. One company in south Florida that does engine rebuilds confirmed the rebuild was not worth it, and, in response to my question about the ETEC, encouraged me to steer away from that option. He said, as a rebuilder, he was not impressed with the quality of those engines. Several mechanics in this area have recommended Yamahas, so that is my focus at this time. As to size, I enjoy both sailing on lakes and motoring, mainly for river or ICW trips. The 50 has always allowed me to have an enjoyable sail at up to 5-6 knots in a good wind and to cruise on my trips at an easy 8 knots with an additional 3-5 knots available if I had to get in quick ahead of bad weather. Consequently, I am not thinking of going higher than a 50 as a replacement. I am curious how fast the 26X goes with a 15-20 HP. Obviously, they are a little less expensive, hence the question.

[Catigale]

Herschel...you will reach hull speed plus a knot or two with the small engine.

I think 25 is the smallest engine that comes with EFI, so if that is important that is something to think about

Resale value on the 15 and under motors is fantastic

[captronr]

The dealer I got my used X from had what I considered a good thought. Mine had an old dog 10HP something on it, so I knew I'd repower right off the bat.

I was thinking 20, 25, or 40HP. His comment was "A 50 won't cost you much more, and will make your boat easier to sell when the time comes. You can power at 1/2 throttle quieter, too"

I thought that was a decent reason.....................

Ron

[Herschel]

Your thoughts are appreciated. Assuming I stay with 50 HP or thereabouts, if I may pick your brains a little more...In my discussions with salesmen, I have mentioned the challenges I have experienced getting my old Mercury up to the recommend RPM's at WOT and associated prop options. They have recommended that I stay with "high thrust" engines, which, apparently some manufactures make and some don't. I gather that the "BF" in "Big Foot" relates to that and not any physical measurements. Have you encountered the "high thrust" issue?

[kelseydo]

Herschel,
My understanding of High Thrust is that the lower end is geared to take a larger and perhaps lower pitch prop resulting in greater thrust at the loss of speed. Not a bad idea for an X or a barge. There are not enough Xs and Ms for manufacturers to target us so I looked elsewhere. I believe the X under power is more similar to pontoon boats and party barges rather than speed and fishing boats so concentrated my internet research in that area.
Dan

[Seapup]

Cool, sounds like a good match. I would be curious of the gph/rpm, I know a few other users here have the etec 60s interfaced. I wonder what the comparison would be.

.
My recommendation is to treat an X as a sailboat and limit engine selection to about 20 HP. Or - if you a willing to accept considerable more fuel consumption (I used as much fuel this season as the three previous seasons combined – what can I say, it’s fun) and decreased sailing performance by adding weight aft then go for 70 – 90 HP (I never claimed to be a sailor). Do not waste any money on engines greater than 20 HP or less than 70 HP.
Happy New Year,
Dan

My thoughts too on the motor sizing. I can't say I noticed the negative impact of additional weight though. Sailing I didn't notice any difference, and motoring I noticed a positive improvement in of handling of chop and waves.

They have recommended that I stay with "high thrust" engines, which, apparently some manufactures make and some don't. I gather that the "BF" in "Big Foot" relates to that and not any physical measurements. Have you encountered the "high thrust" issue?

High thrust refers to the lower unit gear ratio. Lower ratio lets you turn a larger surface area "high thrust" prop which is good on our heavy boats.

Here are some of the specs I found when looking to do my swap:

Yamaha 9.9 is 2.09 and HT that sailboats often use is 2.92

Mercury and Yamha 50/60 are same 1.83, and HT/BF 2.33, The 70/90s are 2.33

Evinrude is 2.67 on the 40-50 and 2.00 on the 75/90

Suzuki is 2.27 on the 50/60 and 2.59 on the 70-90

Tohatsu are around 1.85 for the 50s and 2.00 for 90

[Herschel]

Then, would it be correct to sort the engines listed above in the 50 HP range, in order of preference, all other factors, notwithstanding, regarding HT gear ratio as:
Evenrude 2.67
Mercury and Yamaha 2.33
Suzuki 2.27
Tohatsu 1.85

[kadet]

He said, as a rebuilder, he was not impressed with the quality of those engines.

Translate - I do not have the special Evinrude tools, computer equipment and training to know what I am doing, and a once every 3 year service will send me broke.

This is just like when the new breed of ECM engined cars came on the market, all the old corner mechanics could not work on them because of the "special" electronics so the new fangle motors were all cr@p. The outboard mechanics are now going through the same pain.

With the cost of labour, parts and the relative longevity of a modern outboard rebuilding does not make much sense as it is more cost efficient to replace.

Evinrudes originally got a bad name because of the FITCH models, BRP sorted that out with the ETEC but the stigma has remained. I did a lot of research before I got the ETEC, my only regret was not getting the 90

If I wanted only a sail boat I would not get an or as there are a lot better options out there.

I wanted a powersailer so if you want a motor smaller than 50hp get a different boat

[kadet]

The 13” pitch prop does not make recommended RPM but is smoother, faster, and more efficient than the 11” that did make recommended RPM (I now carry it as a spare).

kelseydo or others with a 14x11 prop could I get some more information as I am looking to re-prop to a 14x11 as I am no longer getting full RPM now the weight in the boat has started to climb with all the addons.

How is the 13 smoother than the 11?

Faster I can see less pitch less distance through water, but higher RPM more turns through water so should cancel out to some extent. Also I find I am not getting fully out of the hole and am stuck at about 12nts full speed for about 4900RPM. Use to get 16knts at 5500.

Efficient I thought not achieving full RPM is sign of prop slip, cavitation and or strain on the motor.

Regards
PK

[DaveB]

I just repowred my 97 MacX with a 50 Bigfoot.
Out the door cost me $6500 with controls and cables from Bass Pro.( 50 bigfoot $5300)
I get 17.5 mph in my very heavy loaded MacX.
The New Bigfoot 50 is a larger engine and you need to cut out a small u shape out of seat to clear engine. Very important to tell them you want cavitation plate 1 inch below hull, this will bring outboard to mount lowest bolts.
If you don't care max speed than lower it.(mounting outboard 2 inches may not need to cut back seat.
My Honda 50 Maxed out at 14.5.
I have seen what corrision does on E-tec down in SW FL.

I am in the midst of repowering, too. My 1998 50 HP Mercury BF finally threw a bearing and, according to my mechanic, is not worth the rebuild. One company in south Florida that does engine rebuilds confirmed the rebuild was not worth it, and, in response to my question about the ETEC, encouraged me to steer away from that option. He said, as a rebuilder, he was not impressed with the quality of those engines. Several mechanics in this area have recommended Yamahas, so that is my focus at this time. As to size, I enjoy both sailing on lakes and motoring, mainly for river or ICW trips. The 50 has always allowed me to have an enjoyable sail at up to 5-6 knots in a good wind and to cruise on my trips at an easy 8 knots with an additional 3-5 knots available if I had to get in quick ahead of bad weather. Consequently, I am not thinking of going higher than a 50 as a replacement. I am curious how fast the 26X goes with a 15-20 HP. Obviously, they are a little less expensive, hence the question.

[Herschel]

I just repowred my 97 MacX with a 50 Bigfoot.
Out the door cost me $6500 with controls and cables from Bass Pro.( 50 bigfoot $5300)

Two questions: 1. The dealers with whom I have been speaking have been assuring me that they will go out on the water and get the right prop for the engine and the boat after the sale and install. Does Bass Pro offer that service, too? 2. I don't hear much about Yamaha on this board, but I have several folks bending my ear that way. I am getting the picture that the Mercury Bigfoot is gong to run about $1,000-1,500 less than a Yamaha. Did that figure into your decision to go with the Merc?

[yukonbob]

When I was looking Yamaha and Suzuki were the stand alone best two on the market, not just for quality but customer service and ease of warranty use (as in they don't put up a fight when they f-up) I own both brands Suz 4s on the boat and yam 2s for the snow and both have given me no problems with very low maintenance. On the same note I also have a twenty five year old merc that will not die no matter what you do to it, but the second I can kill it I get a new one kelseydo I wouldn't be worried about doing oil changes on the water, for one most modern 4s with reg oil go 500 hours between changes, and that only increases with a full synth. Although it is entirely possible to do an on the water change (not the filter though). And if you're worried about the trip north almost every P west coast harbour/ marina has a no charge dry dock and oil disposal service.

[Catigale]

I was thinking 20, 25, or 40HP. His comment was "A 50 won't cost you much more, and will make your boat easier to sell when the time comes. You can power at 1/2 throttle quieter, too

The resell argument is false IMHO. The motor is the highest depreciating component on the boat, and the cot of reinstalling and reinstalling a new motor s about half the cost of a 50 HP or bigger itself.

If a 10-20 HP meets your needs, ou can sell the boat and motor separately at higher margin every time.