Bearings 101

A forum for discussing issues relating to trailers and towing MacGregor sailboats.
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mastreb
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Re: Bearings 101

Post by mastreb »

seahouse wrote:After two years (and who knows how many more) without attention, the system as it is has proven itself without failure. It’s only going to get better when routine maintenance is done.

I think going to the trouble of replacing something because some people are unfamiliar with it is not a good reason to do so. In fact, while it may or may not be the case here, very often the best systems are the ones that are not so common in the mass market. But we are in internet land, and what is a normal best practise in one region, might be unheard of in another.

If there will be sufficient clearance under the rubber dust cap, replacing the buttons with standard grease nipples, as suggeted, is a viable solution, but I suspect that the reason the button fittings are there in the first place is because of their low profile under the caps.

- B. :wink:

Or wait until you know you have a problem (because it broke) and replace it then. Checking temps on the hub after every use with a cheap IR thermo will tell you all you need to know. Keep a log, when it starts going up a curve, it's time.
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Ormonddude
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Re: Bearings 101

Post by Ormonddude »

Reason 8 bearings never get better with service lol ( bearings are never better then when new) reason 9 its grease and bearings the technology is the same and hundreds of years old however 1 is extremely common and readily available if you forget your grease gun and heat up on the highway literally ANY Walmart or auto parts store will have a Gun and Grease for about $20.00 to get you through your trip. as compared to hey got one of these at a few stores. Like I said maybe its just me and to each his own but all I can say is Nope don't Like it.
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Tomfoolery
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Re: Bearings 101

Post by Tomfoolery »

Ormonddude wrote:
Why spend alot of money replacing something that works when all that is needed is a grease gun adapter?
Okay first of all I have never seen a grease stud sticking out of a bearing . . .
You need to get out more. :D :) :wink: The PO's of my trailer added a second axle, which was made by Dexter, so I have one axle with Bearing Buddies, and the other is EZ Lube, with the rubber plug on the bearing cap and the zerk fitting in the end of the axle.

But to be fair, that's the only reason I'm even aware of this system. All of the old rear wheel drive cars I've owned had tapered rollers on a solid spindle that were essentially the same as a trailer axle, and were hand-packed with grease, just like the typical trailer axle, so this is new to me. :|

All of the semi-trailers I used to drive (in a former life) had oil-filled bearings with a transparent window in the hub to monitor oil level. That would be a much better system, I would think, but I haven't heard much good chatter on small trailer axles with oil filled hubs. I would imagine it's execution, not concept, since typical semi-trailers go for hundreds of thousands of miles without issue.
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Sea Wind
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Re: Bearings 101

Post by Sea Wind »

installing an active temperature monitoring system, with automatic grease injection.
that is a nice idea! In the meantime, the manual says that a regular grease gun is all that is needed. I also called the dealer were I got it an confirmed this. I will give it a try this weekend.
Thanks,
Pedro

Dave: we are in for Beer Cruise 2013.
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Tomfoolery
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Re: Bearings 101

Post by Tomfoolery »

I might suggest then that you put together a trailer tool box, with lug wrench, grease gun with spare tube, spare bearings and seals (or assembled hubs), and a jack. I would include some rudimentary electrical kit, including and especially crimp fitting and spare wire, unless you have it on the boat. Something you can toss into the tow vehicle, with everything you might need in one place. It's easy to forget something, but you're guaranteed to remember when you need it and it isn't there.
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