Suzuki overheating
Suzuki overheating
My 2001 Suzuki 50 started to overheat within 5 minutes of leaving the slip today. I checked for blockage and did not see anything. I put a wire up the pee hole and all the intake screen holes. The overheat light and beep will not turn off even at idle. My water stream from the pee hole is very strong. The engine had 200 hours on it yesterday and I turned off the oil change alarm beep but now I have the temp beep. Is there a warning beep at 200 hours to change the impellar? I read the manual 10 times and did not see it. I flushed the engine with Salt Away. The manual says to take it to the dealer but I just put it in the water.
SearchTerms: Socal Mechanic, housecalls, house calls, house-calls
SearchTerms: Socal Mechanic, housecalls, house calls, house-calls
Last edited by BK on Sun Mar 27, 2005 7:27 am, edited 1 time in total.
-
waternwaves
- Admiral
- Posts: 1499
- Joined: Wed Oct 13, 2004 8:18 pm
- Location: X less in North Puget Sound -have to sail other boats for a while
Is it alarming at idle.....with the pee hole streaming.....
If so.....check the wire jacket to the temp sensor...... might find it shorting out where it goes up the block.......on most of the Suzies..once it is in the wire bundle it is impervious to damage....so it should be at either the buzzer end or the sensor end if there is a short.
If so.....check the wire jacket to the temp sensor...... might find it shorting out where it goes up the block.......on most of the Suzies..once it is in the wire bundle it is impervious to damage....so it should be at either the buzzer end or the sensor end if there is a short.
-
Mark Prouty
- Admiral
- Posts: 1723
- Joined: Mon Jan 19, 2004 8:52 am
- Location: Madison, WI Former MacGregor 26X Owner
Here's what the service manual has to say:
OVERHEAT CAUTION SYSTEM
CONDITION 1 (Maximum Temperature)
Immediate activation of the system when:
* Cylinder temperature reaches 121C
* Exhaust manifold temperature reaches 121C
CONDITION 2 (Temp. Rise vs Time)
Immediate activation of the system when:
* The average temperature difference during three consecutive 10 second measurement periods of the cylinder temperature sensor at engine speeds of 500 r/min or higher exceeds the limits as shown below:
Temperature range: 60C-94C Temperature difference: 1.6C
Temperature range: 95C -> Temperature difference: 0.9C
* The average temperature difference during three consecutive 10 second measurment periods of the exhaust manifold temperature sensor at engine speeds of 500 r/min or higher exceeds the limits shown below:
Temperature range: 60C-94C Temperature difference: 14.4C
Temperature range: 95C -> Temperature difference: 1.4C
ACTION:
Engine Speed - Automatically reduced to approx. 3000 r/min by intermittent fuel injection signal if the system is activated at 3000 r/min or higher.
Caution Lamp - "TEMP" lamp lights continuously. "REV-LIMIT" lamp lights continuously during engine speed limiter activation.
Caution Buzzer - Sounds in a series of long (1.5 sec.) beeps.
RESET:
Close throttle to reduce engine speed below approx. 3000 r/min.
When cylinder temperature drops below the limits as shown below, the system resets. However, the system may be activated again unless the cause for overheat (such as insufficient water) is removed.
Caution Cause 1 (Maximum Temperature), Reset Temperature: Approx. 65C
Caution Cause 2 (Temperature Rise vs Time): Reset Temperature: Approx. 70C
So there are two overheat sensors. I haven't found their location in the service manual, but I'm sure it's there somewhere. There are other things to clog up. The tube leading from the pump up the mid-unit, where there is also flow to the oil pan, oil pump case, and from the engine to a thermostat, which could be frozen closed, back to the oil pan, down the driveshaft housing and out the prop exhaust. I'd think the service manual would be essential for troubleshooting this.
--
Moe
OVERHEAT CAUTION SYSTEM
CONDITION 1 (Maximum Temperature)
Immediate activation of the system when:
* Cylinder temperature reaches 121C
* Exhaust manifold temperature reaches 121C
CONDITION 2 (Temp. Rise vs Time)
Immediate activation of the system when:
* The average temperature difference during three consecutive 10 second measurement periods of the cylinder temperature sensor at engine speeds of 500 r/min or higher exceeds the limits as shown below:
Temperature range: 60C-94C Temperature difference: 1.6C
Temperature range: 95C -> Temperature difference: 0.9C
* The average temperature difference during three consecutive 10 second measurment periods of the exhaust manifold temperature sensor at engine speeds of 500 r/min or higher exceeds the limits shown below:
Temperature range: 60C-94C Temperature difference: 14.4C
Temperature range: 95C -> Temperature difference: 1.4C
ACTION:
Engine Speed - Automatically reduced to approx. 3000 r/min by intermittent fuel injection signal if the system is activated at 3000 r/min or higher.
Caution Lamp - "TEMP" lamp lights continuously. "REV-LIMIT" lamp lights continuously during engine speed limiter activation.
Caution Buzzer - Sounds in a series of long (1.5 sec.) beeps.
RESET:
Close throttle to reduce engine speed below approx. 3000 r/min.
When cylinder temperature drops below the limits as shown below, the system resets. However, the system may be activated again unless the cause for overheat (such as insufficient water) is removed.
Caution Cause 1 (Maximum Temperature), Reset Temperature: Approx. 65C
Caution Cause 2 (Temperature Rise vs Time): Reset Temperature: Approx. 70C
So there are two overheat sensors. I haven't found their location in the service manual, but I'm sure it's there somewhere. There are other things to clog up. The tube leading from the pump up the mid-unit, where there is also flow to the oil pan, oil pump case, and from the engine to a thermostat, which could be frozen closed, back to the oil pan, down the driveshaft housing and out the prop exhaust. I'd think the service manual would be essential for troubleshooting this.
--
Moe
-
Theo
- Engineer
- Posts: 189
- Joined: Sun Mar 27, 2005 9:18 am
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
- Location: Huntington Beach, CA
Moe
Great post. What manual are you using. I have the Clymer and it does not give me that detailed info. I am also unable to find a good diagram of the cooling system routing. I know there is also a high pressure vent for high rpms. If it is stuck or clogged could that cause either poor peeing or overheating at higher revs?
Theo
Great post. What manual are you using. I have the Clymer and it does not give me that detailed info. I am also unable to find a good diagram of the cooling system routing. I know there is also a high pressure vent for high rpms. If it is stuck or clogged could that cause either poor peeing or overheating at higher revs?
Theo
I'm using the factory Suzuki service manual. I don't see a water flow diagram laid out on a motor drawing anywhere, but there is some water hose routing for the top end, as well as a logic flowchart. I suppose if that "pressure valve" stuck open, some of the water wouldn't make it to the top end.
--
Moe
--
Moe
Thanks again for more info. I borrowed the Clymer manual from Dave Clark and will see if I can get the Suzuki Service one from the dealer. I removed the temperature sensor and it was a ball of corrosion after only 200 hours. I will replace it today to see if that is my problem. I flush after almost every use but only for a minute or two. I think I need to let the engine warm up to allow the water to go through the temp sensor. That must be the reason for all the corrosion.
Funny though, the corrosion and the metal on the sensor had some blue coating on it. I always use SaltAway when flushing and it is blue. I think from now on I will use SaltAway first and then flush with fresh water. Right now I use SaltAway last and stop the engine when I see Blue coming out the pee hole as directed on the package.
Funny though, the corrosion and the metal on the sensor had some blue coating on it. I always use SaltAway when flushing and it is blue. I think from now on I will use SaltAway first and then flush with fresh water. Right now I use SaltAway last and stop the engine when I see Blue coming out the pee hole as directed on the package.
Last edited by BK on Mon Mar 28, 2005 7:55 am, edited 1 time in total.
- aya16
- Admiral
- Posts: 1362
- Joined: Fri Feb 18, 2005 6:29 am
- Location: LONG BEACH CALIF Mac M 04 WHITE
I have heard of running the engine in a tub filled with water and whats that stuff you use to get rid of deposits in the shower, Like lime away or something like that. It gets rid of calcium, rust stains, salt deposits, you can even run it through your coffee maker. The name escapes me now but someone knows what Im talking about.
-
Theo
- Engineer
- Posts: 189
- Joined: Sun Mar 27, 2005 9:18 am
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
- Location: Huntington Beach, CA
BK
One thing you should check before going any further is the thermostat. As far as I can tell, the water flow out the peehole indicator exits the engine before the therrmostat. Thus you could be getting a good stream out the peehole but insufficient circulation in the engine. I checked mine and found it to be stuck partially open. It is relatively easy to get to at the top of the engine. Pricey though. My replacement was $30+. If you are getting a good stream, chances are it is not your water pump or impeller. In my case I am suspecting bad gas and the possibility that I left the fuel tank vent hole closed. Either can lead to the engine running very lean and sending the cylinder head temps skyrocketing.
Any body else having problems with bad gas? With this weather here in sunny SoCal my boat has been an ornament in my driveway for almost seven months. Is this long enough for gas to go bad?
Theo
One thing you should check before going any further is the thermostat. As far as I can tell, the water flow out the peehole indicator exits the engine before the therrmostat. Thus you could be getting a good stream out the peehole but insufficient circulation in the engine. I checked mine and found it to be stuck partially open. It is relatively easy to get to at the top of the engine. Pricey though. My replacement was $30+. If you are getting a good stream, chances are it is not your water pump or impeller. In my case I am suspecting bad gas and the possibility that I left the fuel tank vent hole closed. Either can lead to the engine running very lean and sending the cylinder head temps skyrocketing.
Any body else having problems with bad gas? With this weather here in sunny SoCal my boat has been an ornament in my driveway for almost seven months. Is this long enough for gas to go bad?
Theo
- dclark
- First Officer
- Posts: 418
- Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2004 10:35 am
- Location: Dave Clark - Orange County, CA - 2000 26X Day Tripper
Hey Moe...In the chapter 4 of the Clymer manual which covers maintenance, it mentions there is a "flush" screw which can be used with a special adapter to flush debris from the cooling system. It's reason for mentioning it is so that you don't confuse it with the screw for the gear oil. I can't find anything else mentioned about this special flush adapter or it's use. Does the your maual say anything about it?
- Catigale
- Site Admin
- Posts: 10421
- Joined: Fri Jun 11, 2004 5:59 pm
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
- Location: Admiral .............Catigale 2002X.......Lots of Harpoon Hobie 16 Skiffs....Island 17
- Contact:
My experience from Clymer and Chilton from the old VW days was they wrote a lot of manuals cutting and pasting - whenever I came across something that didnt make sense I usually ended up deleting it...
Chiltons was much worse than Clymer in this regard
YMMV
On edit - Sigh - three posts, three retractions. DCLark points out below that the manual is correct, so I stand corrected again.
Chiltons was much worse than Clymer in this regard
YMMV
On edit - Sigh - three posts, three retractions. DCLark points out below that the manual is correct, so I stand corrected again.
Last edited by Catigale on Mon Mar 28, 2005 1:39 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- dclark
- First Officer
- Posts: 418
- Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2004 10:35 am
- Location: Dave Clark - Orange County, CA - 2000 26X Day Tripper
All I'm really sure of that on DF60 models (and up), they have what looks like a bigger flush port that a garden hose will fit (maybe someone can confirm this). I don't think it's a Cylmer oops as the screw on my DF50 does exist and it does say "flush" above it. If I can buy an adapter that will allow me to flush it with a garden hose, then it sounds like something I want.
I think I found the problem. The mechanic said all 2000 and 2001 Suzuki"s have a temp sender unit problem. There are 2 temp sensors. The guy will come down to my boat on Thursday and check it out for me for $60.
Btw, I removed the thermostat and it still gave the temp alarm and light.
Btw, I removed the thermostat and it still gave the temp alarm and light.
Last edited by BK on Thu Mar 31, 2005 7:52 pm, edited 1 time in total.
-
Frank C
Hey Bob, ask him if those sending units were covered by warranty within the first three years ??? I heard that Suzuki considered them expendable maintenance items. Any info appreciated.BK wrote:I think I found the problem. The mechanic said all 2000 and 2001 Suzuki"s have a temp sender unit problem. . . . and check it out for me for $60.
Dave,
Yes, the Suzuki DF 60/70 has a garden hose port for flushing. It's located on the middle port side of engine cover.

