26x cleat replacement

[windypatrick]

I m out at the boat replacing things, any idea about how to get at the bow cleat and stern cleat? the screws rotate but the nuts are not visible from the inside.

[mastreb]

Those cleats have nuts below them that must be held in place to remove the bolt, and in both cases, the cleats are put on before the the deck is joined to the liner and hull so there are no through-liner capped holes to access them. If indeed you do succeed in getting the bolts out, You'll have nuts rattling around inside your liner and you'll have no good way to install a new bolt other than to use a toggle bolt or some such.

Sorry for the bad news. You can drill holes through the liner to access them if it's really important to you. Otherwise, you're out of luck.

[Russ]

You can drill holes through the liner to access them if it's really important to you.

I've never tried, but that seems like an option. Then cap the drilled holes with something. Or cut an access port. I've seen some people use access ports to get in there.
The trick is finding exactly where the bolts are before you cut an access hole.

I don't know about the X, but my cleats on my M seem adequate.

[windypatrick]

thanks a bunch! two of my cleats are broken. I suspected that this was the case.

[mastreb]

Ouch. I think what I would do in your case would be to cut the bolts and cleats off with a bolt cutter, let the bottom half of the bolt, the nut, and the underside washer fall into the liner (with the presumption that it will eventually wind up at the bottom liner lip where you can retrieve it) and then bed in new cleats using togglers and 3M 4200 sealant or butyl tape.

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/st ... d=togglers

The advantage of togglers over typical toggle bolts is that the toggle itself is flat, so there's no point-loading at the ends of the toggle. The load is evenly distributed across the toggle, more like a washer. Disadvantages are that you have to drill the holes out to 1/2" to insert a 1/4" toggler, and there's always going to be a plastic bushing in the hole between the bolt and the rim of the hole. I don't find that to be any big deal, especially since you'll have to bed over it with sealant anyway. Don't use 3M 5200--that dries way to hard for bedding hardware, and when it cracks it will allow water intrusion. Probably butyl tape would be best but I'll let others with more experience chime in here.

The one big advantage with these togglers is that you don't have to go drilling holes all over the place looking for the backing nut.

[raycarlson]

the nuts for the forward cleats are fairly easy to get to on an M, is the X with out the bow access panel in the forward berth??

[K9Kampers]

... is the X with out the bow access panel in the forward berth??

On the , without, yes. But there is an arm size space between the upper liner and the bottom liner thru which a skinny arm can reach...

[mastreb]

Just found out today that my bow access panel came from the factory with a stripped out phillips head screw. Going to have to drill it to get it out.

[kmclemore]

Just found out today that my bow access panel came from the factory with a stripped out phillips head screw. Going to have to drill it to get it out.

I use left-handed twist drills (yes, they do exist - click below) for drilling out screws and bolts... that way if the drill catches it will tend to drive the screw out. Using a right-hand twist drill will only serve to tighten the screw/bolt and make it so you have to drill the whole dang thing out.

http://www.irwin.com/tools/drill-bits/l ... l-bit-sets

..or..

http://www.amazon.com/Vermont-American- ... ist+drills

Just a suggestion. Makes life easier.

[Ormonddude]

A trick I use is using a Dremel or similar rotary tool to cut a slot -for a larger slot screw driver and then take the screw out harbor freight has generic rotary tools for like Ten bucks it works about 80% of the time and with stainless steel bump that up to 99% of the time. Now on rusted bolts lets face it sometimes its just fused solid and then the trick don't work

[windypatrick]

The advantage of togglers over typical toggle bolts is that the toggle itself is flat, so there's no point-loading at the ends of the toggle. The load is evenly distributed across the toggle, more like a washer. Disadvantages are that you have to drill the holes out to 1/2" to insert a 1/4" toggler, and there's always going to be a plastic bushing in the hole between the bolt and the rim of the hole.

Good call, I've never used togglers, after chasing your link and looking at some additional links I can see this would be very useful in other places. When I removed the galley face in my 26x none of the fasteners were captive (to my surprise) Soooo, I installed aircraft nutplates at the six screws for quick access. I am planning bigger mods later, but come on, how about some help from the designers. Anyhoo, what is a good brand/source of butyl tape?

[Tomfoolery]

Anyhoo, what is a good brand/source of butyl tape?

This stuff is top shelf.

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape

[Hamin' X]

I m out at the boat replacing things, any idea about how to get at the bow cleat and stern cleat? the screws rotate but the nuts are not visible from the inside.

To the best of my knowledge, early model X's have a removable access panel in the liner above the vee berth; later models have the liner truncated in the vee and you have direct access to the hardware, if you are agile.

If you put the info for you particular boat in your profile, we can answer your questions more accurately and promptly.

~Rich

[windypatrick]

If you put the info for you particular boat in your profile, we can answer your questions more accurately and promptly.

~Rich

Done 1998 Mac 26x

[GART]

I changed the bow cleats for larger ones plus a new bow roller, as has been said before there is a tight space in front of the anchor well / buoyancy liner, quite tight I did it with a socket on the end of a 18 inch long extension arm.
I believe the rear cleats are also accessible from the rear berth, there is a black Perspex cover with the foam buoyancy behind unscrew this and remove the foam blocks then you can get to the bolts beneath the Genoa track, and the Biminis fittings. I also attached cam cleats within reach of the steering position for the jib sheets and fitted nuts on the back. With the socket and long extension I could have reached the rear cleat nuts (you will need a second person to unscrew from above).
(mine is a 2001 model 26X)
Hope this helps
Graham