Main halyard aft - 26M

[Moe]

With the cleat on the mast, I don't feel that confident that I could release the cleat quickly if I need to.

Me neither, Paul, especially with the sheave not very far forward of the cams (what, an inch, half-inch?), holding the line down at cam level, there has to be considerably more angle on the line for it to clear the cams. Now put that rig some six feet or more from the cockpit (in a storm where the companionway is closed for example) and there has to be a lot of movement of the line at the cockpit to get it out of the cams.

I don't consider this solution of cleating the halyard at the mast "leading the line aft" any more than the closer cleat of a vang not led aft.

As several have noted, there's a way to lead the halyard aft on the M with turning blocks on the deck and at the forward corner of the hatch track, and run back to a reachable rope clutch.

--
Moe

[Andy26M]

You Yours -

Good catch. I fixed my post above.

Figuring out how to get good sail shape on the 26M is a bit of a puzzle.

Thanks,
Andy

[Moe]

The force impeding rotation from the turning block being on the deck is probably so little as to be immeasurable when you consider the fraction of a degree change in the angle of the LONG main block to turning block distance. Chip Hindes has already pointed this out.

And with a properly trimmed halyard, the downward force and increase in friction should also be insignificant. In heavy winds, when you'll have the halyard tight and have more friction, there's more force in the sail to overcome it and turn the mast. In light winds, if you don't loosen the halyard, there MIGHT be enough friction to keep the lower powered sail from turning the mast, but if you loosen it, that will reduce the friction.

--
Moe

[Andy26M]

Moe and I are in violent agreement!

He has stated the point more eloquently than I could - thanks, Moe!

- AndyS

[Moe]

YMMV, but along with roller-furling, I see the main halyard and reefing line led aft as safety, more than convenience. Having a line cleated at the mast, where it requires large movement in the cockpit to release it, movement that may not be easy to achieve in heavy wind and/or sea conditions, or having the potential jam point at the mast, which would require going forward to release it, in my opinion, defeats the safety advantage of having the lines led aft.

I certainly agree that reefing should be done before needed, in conditions where a mast-cleated halyard shouldn't be a disadvantage. And I'll make every effort to do so... but humans make errors in judgement, and I trust a rope clutch ready-at-hand much more than a cam cleat well forward on the mast, to release and bail me out if I screw up. To me, that's more important than the friction issue, which can be addressed in any number of ways. Like I said, YMMV.

Of course, I also see a rotating mast on a cruiser as contrary to the K.I.S.S. principle in the first place.

--
Moe

[Moe]

Your mileage may vary... i.e. you may not be of the same opinion.

--
Moe

[baldbaby2000]

I believe you may not be taking into consideration the frictional increase caused by the downward pressure of the halyard attachment off the spar, not to mention any direct restriction side to side from turning blocks.

The downward pressure is what I was wondering about too. I think when you look at the downward force due to the rigging and a tight mainsheet, this extra force due to the halyard probably is insignificant (as mentioned earlier). I'll try cleating my main to the mast next time I'm out and see if it makes any difference.

I don't think my turning blocks cause any restriction.

BB

[Chip Hindes]

... that does not make the downward force on the bearing (used to be made of Teflon but was prone to replacement from noted washer failures) minimal as it may seem, it can only impede the operation and performance of this new MacGregor design.

You're right, however:

There are four shrouds and a forestay, if properly tensioned each puttting (say) 200 lbs downward force, compression on the mast and thence to the bearing. Neglecting the angles (small) round numbers that's 1000 lbs before the halyard.

Say Frank weighs 200 lbs. His "body weight only" level of tension adds another 200 lbs, exactly 20% in this simplified example. In practice, my guess is by pullling really hard it's more likely around 100 lbs; whereas if using the winch you can typically get around 200 max.

20% isn't going to make that much difference.

The photo provided of the block with cam was pretty poorly detailed and I got nothing from it. I was prepared to point out what Moe already has done regarding cleating and releasing angles, and also that with the dodger up it's worse. Moe beat me to it. I concede simple, but not nearly as good.

[tidalwave]

I have a 2004 . I just looked at my mast rotation bolt...there are two SS washers with a white 'plastic' washer between. I don't know if it is Teflon or not. From the above discussions...should I replace the white washer with another material. If so, what type of material and any suggestions where to buy.