Main halyard swivel block

[aya16]

Yeah I can see where the 140 wouldn't work to well with a dodger.

[mastreb]

Eye nuts look like they'd be a great solution--did not know that they existed. I think I'll reverse the hound bolts and put these eye nuts on. That should completely eliminate the problem. Anyone know what the stock hound through bolt size is? I was told by the factory that all the bolts are either 9/16s or 7/16s, but I'd not checked these.

[Highlander]

Mast hound bolts are 3/8" size , also if you mount your base blocks in front of the mast @ the mast raising brkt no swivels are needed & it will not affect the mast from rotating as the mast is pivoted at the front so most movement is at the rear section of the mast virtually zero at the front

J
PS also if you double or triple up the cheek blocks in front of the sliding hatch & add same to port side you can lead all lines aft along the side of the sliding hatch leaving the deck clean & clear of lines

[mastreb]

Mast hound bolts are 3/8" size , also if you mount your base blocks in front of the mast @ the mast raising brkt no swivels are needed & it will not affect the mast from rotating as the mast is pivoted at the front so most movement is at the rear section of the mast virtually zero at the front

J
PS also if you double or triple up the cheek blocks in front of the sliding hatch & add same to port side you can lead all lines aft along the side of the sliding hatch leaving the deck clean & clear of lines

Thanks for the bolt size info! So the port side has the glass to support cheek blocks? I was warned by the factory not to bolt hardware except directly next to other mounted hardware because the hull is only built up under existing hardware. Are you mounting close enough to the jib track that this is the case, or is the warning from the factory just not that big of a deal? Also, is the existing cheekblock mounted with a nut and bolt or just a screw into the fiberglass? (in otherwords, do I have to get up under the liner to do this or can it all be done from the deck above?)

Sorry for all the questions, just helps me have the right stuff on hand to do the job. The distance between my house, the boat, and West Marine is pretty extreme

[c130king]

My boat came this way from the previous owner. The blocks at the base of the mast on the starboard side were pulling out. Turns out they were only screwed in. And the fiberglass is not very thick in that location. So I went inside and removed the panel above the forward dinnette seat, removed all the foam, and converted the screws to bolts with washers/nuts. Not difficult at all. That is my "double halyard" and there is lots of tension on that block.

The blocks on the port side is for the reefing system and does not have tension on it except when reefed. I don't know if I could get to the backside to put convert to bolts/washers/nuts. But that block still seems very secure.

Could be that the fiberglass is thicker on the port side of the mast...not sure about that.



The "cheek blocks" which are further outboard are also just "screwed in" versus bolted. But I have had no issues with these yet and they work great.



If these "cheek blocks" ever do come loose I could attach new turning blocks to the stanchions I guees.

Cheers,
Jim

[Highlander]

If you study & stop frame this vid from the second half on you can view most of my running rigging, the blocks at the mast base are attached to the mast base brkt
http://s844.photobucket.com/albums/ab1/ ... 010064.mp4

J

[Highlander]

Mast hound bolts are 3/8" size , also if you mount your base blocks in front of the mast @ the mast raising brkt no swivels are needed & it will not affect the mast from rotating as the mast is pivoted at the front so most movement is at the rear section of the mast virtually zero at the front

J
PS also if you double or triple up the cheek blocks in front of the sliding hatch & add same to port side you can lead all lines aft along the side of the sliding hatch leaving the deck clean & clear of lines

Thanks for the bolt size info! So the port side has the glass to support cheek blocks? I was warned by the factory not to bolt hardware except directly next to other mounted hardware because the hull is only built up under existing hardware. Are you mounting close enough to the jib track that this is the case, orSorry for all the questions, just helps me have the right stuff on hand to do the job. The distance between my house, the boat, and West Marine is pretty extreme

is the warning from the factory just not that big of a deal? Also, is the existing cheekblock mounted with a nut and bolt or just a screw into the fiberglass? (in otherwords, do I have to get up under the liner to do this or can it all be done from the deck above?)

Yes you can mount the same garhauer blocks & & double them up on both the s/b & port sides the deck is the same thickness there & you need to drill the mounting holes through the deck using the blocks as a temp plate then the holes will be marked through the liner then using a holesaw drill out the liner 5/8" or 1/2" or what ever size liner plugs you have but not to big a liner plug as the holes are fairly close together if I have time tomorrow when I get up or maybe when I get home at 2am I try & take some pic;s & post them ok

J
PS thats if I remember !!

[mastreb]

Ah, so you're saying to just drill through the deck and the liner, then use the hole in the liner as the pilot hole for the hole saw to open up the liner for the nut and washer. Brilliant! Time to buy a 100 pk of liner colored plugs...

[Highlander]

Ah, so you're saying to just drill through the deck and the liner, then use the hole in the liner as the pilot hole for the hole saw to open up the liner for the nut and washer. Brilliant! Time to buy a 100 pk of liner colored plugs...

Yes yer the man

Here's pic's of my set up
first sit the foot block on the deck port side oppisite the same foot block on the S/B side measure it to the exact same location only on the port side hold it there mark the drill locations with the touch of the drill & bit same hole size, check the marked drill locations are right & then drill the two holes , then put your ss screws partly through the holes to be sure they fit ok , here's a pic of the S/B side doubled up foot blocks
http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab1/ ... 010016.jpg


now get a holesaw same size as the liner plugs next to the holes your going to drill & drill out the liner using the pilot hole as your guide



http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab1/ ... 0025-1.jpg

now using #5200 seal the deck holes install foot blocks using ss screws



Now you need someone to hold the ss screws & double foot blocks in possition & you now install body washers & nylon lock nuts remember to use lots of 5200 on the bottom block base & clean off the eccess from the deck with varisol before it sets , remember to check that the foot blocks are facing the right way closed end to the front if you do the port side first you'll have the S/B side as your guide

Here's my double base blocks on my mast base brkt's mounted using eye bolts
http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab1/ ... 0021-1.jpg

http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab1/ ... 0022-1.jpg

http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab1/ ... 0013-2.jpg
Hope this helps you can just go with a single foot block if thats all you require on the port side but I needed doubles so I bought three of them & doubled up bothsides

J

[Highlander]

Now if you run your lines back from these Foot blocks you will not have any lines laying on the deck to trip over

J

[Crikey]

If you wanted even more lines from the mast area coming back, how would you expand beyond the present turning block? Two staggered in approximately the same area?

The drill through locator method is brilliant!

Ross