On the subject of "Engine Flop": We sailed our X with Nissan 50 for several years without ever disconnecting the steering mechanism. Never had a problem. 120 lb Admiral does most of the steering. When we bought our M with Suzuki 70 we went sailing on a light air day and as the end of the bay approached we tried to tack. Boat just steadily went to lee and we had to start the motor to get it to come about. Next time out in light wind we disconnected the engine--the BWY setup makes this a 15 second activity. Now the boat tacks like on rails. Testing in 15 knot winds last Saturday same results--lee helm is gone with the motor centered and disconnected from the steering. We also experimented with leaving the motor out of the steering loop and motoring with board and rudders down at about 6.5 knots. The boat steered just fine in this setup, although we wanted to reconnect the steering when we docked the boat in our ridiculously narrow slip.
I don't know how much of the difference in X to M is the result of a heavier motor, different fore/aft balance under sail, or what, but the 70 suzi on the M definitely needs to be disconnected. I can heartily recomment the BWY system for this purpose.
On my second 26X I had the steering go to the obm first and from the obm to the rudders. I think it is a much better way to do it.
On my 26M, I'm thinking of doing the same thing. Has anyone else tried this on the 26M? Any ideas?
Tom Spohn wrote:. . . I don't know how much of the difference in X to M is the result of a heavier motor, different fore/aft balance under sail, or what, but the 70 suzi on the M definitely needs to be disconnected. I can heartily recomment the BWY system for this purpose.
WADR, Tom, my point was that every boat might be different, since every motor installation is truly unique. Some have the problem with their 50s, but you did not. Yet on my 26X, I've never had my Suzuki 60/70 flop the steering at all. For some unknown reason, it is well balanced even when elevated. Keeping the motor connected does add some weight and mass to the steering linkage, but I think that might be an advantage.
FWIW ... cheers!
Bill at BOATS 4 SAIL wrote:On my second 26X I had the steering go to the obm first and from the obm to the rudders. I think it is a much better way to do it. . .
Bill,
Never saw anything like your description. On every 26X I've seen, the steering cable exits from the starboard bulkhead and attaches directly to the stainless steering tube (either V-shaped or C-shaped). That steering tube connects the two rudders like an automotive tie rod. Finally, a motor bar connects between the starboard rudder bracket and the motor flange. Seems "right" to me, but then who's ta say, eh??
That rod connecting the motor to the starboard rudder is designed to be a quick disconnect at the rudder end. This frees the steering from the weight of the motor. That starboard rudder has a longer pivot pin which holds the tierod firm so the motor can't flip-flop.
If it involves ring dings or nuts moving the tie rods don't go there unless you put a lot of spares on board.
That's what's nice about the BWY steering arm for the X or the M. It has quick release ball connectors with nothing to go splash as you are hanging out the back trying to move the arm.
Jack O'Brien wrote:That rod connecting the motor to the starboard rudder is designed to be a quick disconnect at the rudder end. This frees the steering from the weight of the motor. That starboard rudder has a longer pivot pin which holds the tierod firm so the motor can't flip-flop.
Jack - right-o.
It's easy enough to move the motor rod from the rudder arm to the starboard rudder's upright center bolt. However, as I have mentioned elsewhere, my outboard has no tendency to flop to either side, so I've never found any advantage in disconnecting the motor rod.
Bill's description is of a completely different approach (so it seems), which would preclude the disconnect tactic. Anyway - not a problem here.
Now that I think about it, I realize my Suzi 50 DOES want to flip-flop when raised. In fact, I have to put a bungie cord to the steering wheel when I trailer so it doesn't flop to one side or the other. I'll have to try disconnecting that tierod when sailing and see what difference it makes. Duane's point about ringdings and nuts is valid; I'll have to eyeball that setup and see what can be done to improve it. Can't remember right now but, it seems perhaps a ringding AND a nut is involved.
Frank: You certainly know your motor and I don't, but I am willing to bet you a wet frosty one that if the friction adjustment, tierod and cables are loose your Suzi 60 would want to flop when raised. (If I lose you have to come to Floridah to collect.)
When the 26X first came out in '95, the steering was hooked up to the rudders or the obm, and you had to switch from one to the other. When the rudders were hooked up, the obm would flop from side to side as you tacked.
I designed a steering hook-up with a ss turnbuckle body, ball joints and threaded rod that was far and away better than the one later sold by MacGregor.
The obm and the rudders were both hooked up all the time, it gave the helm a real solid feel, and the obm did not flop if you were holding on to the wheel.
When I hooked up the steering cable to the obm first and then to the rudders, it was better yet.
Last edited by Bill at BOATS 4 SAIL on Fri Feb 25, 2005 5:39 am, edited 3 times in total.
