A brake problem tidbit to store in your memory
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Hardcrab
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A brake problem tidbit to store in your memory
Last weekend, I met a fellow Mac'er (Hartflat) and his Admiral at MDR.
Their boatless 07 aluminum trailer had the left wheel (only) lock up and just drag/skid along the parking lot .
Long story, but the tidbit is: If this happens to you, and you have eliminated all other logical reasons for a frozen wheel,
try tapping the disc brake caliper semi-lightly with a hammer.
The offending puck retracted, the wheel unfroze, and all was well in the world.
The BoatUS trailer guy suggested this on the phone, and it worked a charm.
Their boatless 07 aluminum trailer had the left wheel (only) lock up and just drag/skid along the parking lot .
Long story, but the tidbit is: If this happens to you, and you have eliminated all other logical reasons for a frozen wheel,
try tapping the disc brake caliper semi-lightly with a hammer.
The offending puck retracted, the wheel unfroze, and all was well in the world.
The BoatUS trailer guy suggested this on the phone, and it worked a charm.
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kitcat
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Re: A brake problem tidbit to store in your memory
Yep, I've had the same problem with a horse trailer fitted with drum brakes, after the parking brake has been left on when parked up. Sometimes it will release with a hefty thump of a lead hammer, sometimes not, which means taking the whole thing apart! 
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Paul S
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Re: A brake problem tidbit to store in your memory
at least for the time being. There still could be an underlying problem. The actuator could be stuck as well. or there could still be a problem with the caliper. Something to keep an eye on!Hardcrab wrote:Last weekend, I met a fellow Mac'er (Hartflat) and his Admiral at MDR.
Their boatless 07 aluminum trailer had the left wheel (only) lock up and just drag/skid along the parking lot .
Long story, but the tidbit is: If this happens to you, and you have eliminated all other logical reasons for a frozen wheel,
try tapping the disc brake caliper semi-lightly with a hammer.
The offending puck retracted, the wheel unfroze, and all was well in the world.
The BoatUS trailer guy suggested this on the phone, and it worked a charm.
- pokerrick1
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- dennisneal
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Re: A brake problem tidbit to store in your memory
I'd recommend that BOTH trailer calipers be properly rebuilt, or replaced, whenever this happens. It would also be a good idea to inspect the brake master cylinder, and bleed the brake lines. If the owner cannot do this, any licensed auto brake shop can do it.
- seahouse
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Re: A brake problem tidbit to store in your memory
I know with a car, even with disk brakes, you should not use your parking brake in the rain, especially if the car will be sitting for a few days after, and your brakes haven't been heated from use. The pad will rust stuck to the (cast iron) rotor. Happened to me often before I figured out what the clunk was when I started out the next time! Doesn't really cause damage because it releases once you move.
An unloaded trailer doesn't provide enough traction to release it, so the wheel drags.
If that's what the problem is, it is not a real threat if it recurrs. But if the rotor is stainless steel, (ie. not a car, but a Mac trailer) this is less likely to be the cause, even if the trailer were parked with the surge brakes engaged.
If the trailer is aging and gets salt water, some brake maintenance is more likely required.
-B.
An unloaded trailer doesn't provide enough traction to release it, so the wheel drags.
If that's what the problem is, it is not a real threat if it recurrs. But if the rotor is stainless steel, (ie. not a car, but a Mac trailer) this is less likely to be the cause, even if the trailer were parked with the surge brakes engaged.
If the trailer is aging and gets salt water, some brake maintenance is more likely required.
-B.
- seahouse
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Re: A brake problem tidbit to store in your memory
Hey Hardcrab!
The hammer trick is a good one, and it also works for stuck starter solenoids.
And if it doesn't work, it just means you need to use a bigger hammer!
-Brian.
The hammer trick is a good one, and it also works for stuck starter solenoids.
And if it doesn't work, it just means you need to use a bigger hammer!
-Brian.
- Highlander
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Re: A brake problem tidbit to store in your memory
once a yr remove whls & calipers lube guide pins & caliper mounting brkt you'll be less likely to have any problems
J
J
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Re: A brake problem tidbit to store in your memory
Are you sure this isnt the surge brake releasing? The only time I have had pads stuck to disks is when the caliper piston is sticking - even then, the pad releases pretty quickly from the disk, in shear.Happened to me often before I figured out what the clunk was when I started out the next time!
- seahouse
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Re: A brake problem tidbit to store in your memory
Hey Cat! 
This happens with just the car without the trailer attached, but I do know exactly the clunk you're referrring to.
I should point out that I commute daily on a motorcycle when there's no snow, (and no thunderstorm), use the Admiral's car for other trips, so this car can sometimes sit for weeks after being through the rain. Once I started paying attention, I noticed that it leaves an imprint of the pad on the rotor that doesn't wear off for hundreds of miles sometimes. The wheels happen to be open so they're easy to see.
Sometimes I forget and apply the parking brake when it's wet. Forget, that is, until I go to move the car again! The clunk then reminds me again!
Mystery solved.
- Brian.
This happens with just the car without the trailer attached, but I do know exactly the clunk you're referrring to.
I should point out that I commute daily on a motorcycle when there's no snow, (and no thunderstorm), use the Admiral's car for other trips, so this car can sometimes sit for weeks after being through the rain. Once I started paying attention, I noticed that it leaves an imprint of the pad on the rotor that doesn't wear off for hundreds of miles sometimes. The wheels happen to be open so they're easy to see.
Sometimes I forget and apply the parking brake when it's wet. Forget, that is, until I go to move the car again! The clunk then reminds me again!
- Brian.
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vizwhiz
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Re: A brake problem tidbit to store in your memory
Yeah, this was discovered as an issue primarily when brake pads were asbestos without the metal flecks in them...and it was more of an issue with drum brakes because they didn't tend to release as easily as the caliper/disc brakes do. Still happens - I get the clunk too from time-to-time too...but that's partly because I use my parking brake religiously - many don't (many people couldn't tell you why it's there!). Could also be eased by using different brake pads...some are less susceptible to sticking after being wet.
- seahouse
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Re: A brake problem tidbit to store in your memory
Yup - performance pads- they also leave a big black mess of dust all over the wheels. But that is the hallmark of a performance pad, isn't it? Yuk 
- hartflat
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Re: A brake problem tidbit to store in your memory
Hey there Hardcrab...
We enjoyed the weekend & sharing Mods & Mac stories with you... thanks for the moral support during our trailer adventure.
Thought I'd add that the rotors, pads, calipers (all parts were the more expensive corrosion resistent material) & bearing buddies had all been replaced less than a year ago & that the surge brake slider hitch appeared to have been working when this happened. The dang thing was parked there for five days before this happened & the rotors looked like they hadn't been used in months. When we got back home though, the rotors were well polished. I'm thinking there's more than just salt in the nasty waters of MDR.
The folks at BoatUS were great. According to them, our situation was not uncommon & tapping the caliper with a spritz of WD40 usually worked. (too bad it won't make my sorry looking blue hull pretty again.
)
I'll be keeping a can of that stuff with me from now on... or go with Hardcrabs idea of mast-up storage.
We enjoyed the weekend & sharing Mods & Mac stories with you... thanks for the moral support during our trailer adventure.
Thought I'd add that the rotors, pads, calipers (all parts were the more expensive corrosion resistent material) & bearing buddies had all been replaced less than a year ago & that the surge brake slider hitch appeared to have been working when this happened. The dang thing was parked there for five days before this happened & the rotors looked like they hadn't been used in months. When we got back home though, the rotors were well polished. I'm thinking there's more than just salt in the nasty waters of MDR.
The folks at BoatUS were great. According to them, our situation was not uncommon & tapping the caliper with a spritz of WD40 usually worked. (too bad it won't make my sorry looking blue hull pretty again.
I'll be keeping a can of that stuff with me from now on... or go with Hardcrabs idea of mast-up storage.
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Hardcrab
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Re: A brake problem tidbit to store in your memory
hartflat,
Ditto on the great time.
We'll have to see about rounding up the MDR folks and plan a weekend trip to Two Harbors sometime soon.
Take care,
Bill and Sue
Ditto on the great time.
We'll have to see about rounding up the MDR folks and plan a weekend trip to Two Harbors sometime soon.
Take care,
Bill and Sue
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vizwhiz
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Re: A brake problem tidbit to store in your memory
Revival of old posts...it's just something I'm good at.
Actually, I had read this article before, and I have been thinking about it for several months while I was finishing the boat part of the boat/trailer preparations. Now I'm on to the trailer...and I want to ask - specifically because this "trailer brake lock-up" has me concerned. My situation is:
(1) I have an old-style, all-steel (painted black) Mac single-axle trailer that I'm assuming is original, with DRUM brakes.
(2) The trailer has only light rust (compared to what I would expect), and so I'm assuming the previous owners did NOT spend the last 15 years launching in salt water every other weekend...which I plan to do!
(3) The trailer wheel hubs have "bearing buddies" installed (which look like genuine product).
(4) We plan to leave the boat next to the salt water in a mast-up, on-trailer marina with a boat ramp. We do NOT plan to trailer to/from except the first time to put the boat over there. The plan is to drive over, hook up, launch, sail, retrieve, unhook, and leave...(after washing everything of course).
I was contemplating taking the brake shoes out of the drums completely, since I will not be doing any more over-the-road trailering than the one trip to the marina. I am concerned about leaving the brakes in the drums to sit there and rust for long periods of time, thinking it might cause us a brake lock-up as described in this thread. Am I being overly concerned, or is the idea of taking the brake shoes out of the drums worth the effort??
Actually, I had read this article before, and I have been thinking about it for several months while I was finishing the boat part of the boat/trailer preparations. Now I'm on to the trailer...and I want to ask - specifically because this "trailer brake lock-up" has me concerned. My situation is:
(1) I have an old-style, all-steel (painted black) Mac single-axle trailer that I'm assuming is original, with DRUM brakes.
(2) The trailer has only light rust (compared to what I would expect), and so I'm assuming the previous owners did NOT spend the last 15 years launching in salt water every other weekend...which I plan to do!
(3) The trailer wheel hubs have "bearing buddies" installed (which look like genuine product).
(4) We plan to leave the boat next to the salt water in a mast-up, on-trailer marina with a boat ramp. We do NOT plan to trailer to/from except the first time to put the boat over there. The plan is to drive over, hook up, launch, sail, retrieve, unhook, and leave...(after washing everything of course).
I was contemplating taking the brake shoes out of the drums completely, since I will not be doing any more over-the-road trailering than the one trip to the marina. I am concerned about leaving the brakes in the drums to sit there and rust for long periods of time, thinking it might cause us a brake lock-up as described in this thread. Am I being overly concerned, or is the idea of taking the brake shoes out of the drums worth the effort??
