Restoring Oxidized Black on 26M Windows

[charlesvanmidd]

Has anyone found a product that will restore the black around the windows on a 25M?
It looks good for a few days then the dullness returns. Any/all suggestions appreciated.

Charles
Kansas City

[windcaptive]

I took my 19 and had the black repainted at an auto body shop and had no oxidation since. The sun can be tough here in Phoenix.

[bradhill]

Charles,

My 1996 has frustrated me for four of the past five years with the immediate oxidation of the black gelcoat. By reading some of posts on this board; it seems this is a common complaint and lots of people have solutions of varying successes. Let me tell you what worked for me last year.

I used a multi-step process that left my windows looking great at season’s end.

1. Thoroughly wash the gelcoat and scrub with a 3M nylon pad and boat wash.
2. Use a solvent to remove old waxes and polishes. I use Interlux 202 (fiberglass wash) but acetone or lacquer thinner should work as well.
3. Bring the finish to a completely smooth surface with 1600 or finer wet sandpaper.
4. Wash the gelcoat again with Interlux 202 to insure that no residual waxes remain that will interfere with a new coating.
5. Apply Penetrol to the black gelcoat and allow time for it to be absorbed. You will find that the black is now blacker. Remove excess Penetrol and polish to a bright shine.
6. Protect the new shiny black surface with a heavy coat of Collinite’s No. 845 Insulator Wax.

This may seem like overkill in time spent but it finally left me with an unoxidized finish throughtout the summer.

Good luck.

Brad Hill

[Hardcrab]

Much has been posted.
The better long term answer just might be a quality paint job.
Paint should not degrade like the gel coat seems to.
If not paint, then I'll second using Collinite products.
Best success by far, in my book.

The most useful advice is to not let the blacks start downhill in the first place.
Cover with a tarp or shade or something, if you can.

Keep them nice, either from new, or after a painfull, extensive, restore job.
That will mean a simple clean and rewax once a month, no matter what they look like.
There isn't that much square footage involved.
Do it, even if they don't need it.
Don't let them go downhill.
It's a long hike back.

I'd think this could apply to the unfortunate slow hull guys also.
My sympathies on the acreage involved.

Shiny blue hulls sure do look nice though.
On someone elses boat, that is.

[1st Sail]

I'm starting the attack of the stripes this weekend. Here are my weapons of choice.
http://www.autogeek.net/po.html for the big stuff
http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/car ... orbital.do for the small stuff that a 5in polisher won't fit.

The random orbitals (variable speed) are awesome and will not leave swirl marks. Unless your are really careless.

2 qts of 3M polishing compound, fine and ultra fine to knock down the oxidation without getting in to the gelcoat. I will hit the stripes with Collinite.
The spin starts here!

[bastonjock]

dont use 3M if they have the same formulation in the states as they do in the UK,read the label and if it contains ammonia,dont use it as ammonia makes the white gell coat go yellow,a better product is Farecla G3 compound for boats.

[mike uk]

Bastonjock

I'm about to tackle my faded black stripes too. I will use the Farecla G3. Can you give me a quick run down on exactly what you would recommend for the sequence of jobs - preparation, rubbing down, finishing, etc. and can you also say if you would do this with a machine or by hand?

Cheers
Mike

[kmclemore]

Discussed several times in the past... perhaps these may help...

http://www.macgregorsailors.com/forum/v ... f=9&t=2554

http://www.macgregorsailors.com/forum/v ... f=9&t=3602

http://www.macgregorsailors.com/forum/v ... f=9&t=5059

[bastonjock]

Hi Mike

Id go for 1500 grade wet or dry and give it a good rub down,if there are any scratches, use 400 wet or dry first,trick is to put in some washing up liquid first and leave sand paper to soak,Once you have rubbed it down with 1500,then use the G3,i use a buffing machine,best to get one with a variable speed,start off slow and work up,if its a bit dry use some water to lubricate and remember to clean off all of the G3 spots straight away as it is a real pain to do after it drys.

Look in your local yellow pages for a supplier to car sray paint shops,there you will get the professional products such as wet or dry,the stuff in Halfords is not good enough IMHO

If you use a buffing machine remember to keep it moving from side to side ,up and down etc,dont put too much G3 on at a time.

[Matt19020]

I was just wondering if anyone went the paint route? What would the cost be? $200,$400,$500??

[kmclemore]

Yes, several people have gone the 'paint' route... check the links.

[1st Sail]

I'm using 3in and 5in random orbital polishers. Meguiars #45 worked well for me. I keep a water bottle handy and spritz the area to keep the slurry wet. I finish polish with 3M No. 1. Then was with Meguiars marine paste wax. Practical sailor rated Collinite #1, and Meguiars #2 but much easier to polish than Collinite. However, I'm going to restore the starboard side with Collinite and compare.

FYI the 3M No. 1 works very well on the windows. The PO hit the windows with a buffer in a few spots and the 3M cleaned up the cloudy marks very quickly to a clear high gloss. I tried some windshield / glass polish from Griots but it is too agressive.