Axle failure while towing

[Ron]

My 1997 Mac 26X trailer almost snapped clean through while driving about 35 mph on the road. It failed about 1.5 feet from the right side. The crack was from the bottom of the axle almost clear through to the top. Only about 3/8 inch of metal on the top remained. The reason I new it failed was because the tires tilted in at the top and on the right side the tire was rubbing against the boat and making smoke. It actually burnt a depression into the boat where it rubbed. Luckily no other damage to the boat.

Progressive insurance for the boat includes roadside assistance while trailering and I had help within about 30 minutes of the failure. The tow operator had a dolly, which involves four wheels with two axles. We removed the trailer's wheels and set up the dolly under the trailer. It took us about 90 minutes to get it setup good, but I was then able to drive approximately 5 miles home at very slow speed (never about 20 mph) with the tow operator following me.

At home I put the trailer on cinder blocks and removed both wheels. To remove the trailer I cut through the u-bolts. I did get one nut off, but they're so rusted and the threads are no good it is easier to hack-saw through the u-bolt and buy new ones. It took about 10 minutes to hack-saw each u-bolt off, and there are four of them. Make a single cut across the top and then you can remove both sides of the u-bolt.

Once that is done, the axle is removed. The bottom of the axle was rusted in several places and if it didn't break where it did it probably would have broke someplace else. I'm going to replace the axle with a new one.

I remove the bottom paint and tire rubber and used MarineTex to repair where the tire rubbed against the boat. The next day I sanded it and put some bottom paint over it. You can almost not notice.

A couple of things learned:

1. roadside assistance made the whole ordeal OK, they came fast and was able to help me.
2. Removing the axle is relatively easy, a set of new u-bolts can be had for about $25, why waste time removing the nuts that might not come off of a 13-year old trailer?

The trailer is also badly rusted under all the wood bunks. I've already done some repairs there. I think I'll repair them next. I priced a new trailer, but I only use it twice a year to go 25 miles, I can't see spending $3000 on a new one.

[Kelly Hanson East]

Ditto on those U-bolts. Replace all the bolts on the trailer while you are at it. I burned mine off with oxy-acetylene which was the most fun Ive had in the toolshed for a while..(ok, in the driveway)

I replaced my axle with a galvanised one from Champion in LA (the state, not the city - 8 days shipping time) after I destroyed a wheel hub last year. They had all the hardware and stuff needed for the job. I did go SS on all the replacement hardware

[Rick Westlake]

Bunks are easy to replace. I replaced those on my old Mac 19's trailer, and also on the trailer for Bossa Nova. Do yourself a favor and get treated 2x4 lumber - and, rather than use carpet on the bunks, get "bunk slicks." (There was a thread on the bunk slicks a few months ago. I think soggy carpet - and it will stay soggy between the bunks and the trailer frame - is an open invitation to rust and rot.)

While you've got the boat and the bunks off the trailer, why not wire-brush the frame and put on two coats of RustOleum? That will help extend the life of your trailer.

You didn't mention trailer brakes, but they were a big problem for me on my Mac trailer. I had the brake pads actually separate themselves from the shoes, this summer - it jammed up one wheel entirely. I'm glad I was only hauling the boat around the marina lot! I removed the brake shoes entirely, and soon after I bought a brand-new SeaLion trailer. (I have some ambitious travel plans for the near future, so a top-notch trailer makes sense for me.)

[Ron]

I saw the post on the Champion axle replacement and I may go that route if what I'm doing doesn't work out. My neighbor has a construction company and he said he had the material and his guy could replace the square axle with a new one. If this doesn't work out then I'll either find a local trailer shop or order from Champion and do it myself.

I also agree Rick's advice. Once I have the boat off I need to do something about the bunks, and it is the wood sitting on top of the metal that keeps the water there for it to rust away. Somebody gave me a reference to a guy who'll fix and refurbish trailers, I'll see what he can do and what he'll quote.

[Highlander]

So much for regular trl maint. !
Trl's should be inspected regular twice a year at the very least a good walk around and visual inspection ! brakes & wheel bearing should be inspected anualy once a yr , if done at the end of each season you have all off season to find the parts & lots of time on your hands ! & dont forget to inspect the ball hitch coupler !!!!Oh and its nice to know your lights are working also !

J
PS I know I have a very dry sense of humor !

[1st Sail]

Wasn't there an earlier post about the not using cinder block to support point loads. Seems like one member collapsed the block and found the trailer on the ground.

[Kelly Hanson East]

Cinder blocks are fine for winter supports,since it wont matter if they fall.

NEVER get under anything supported by cinderblocks, unless its your house on a cinderblock wall. The commomn failure mode for cinderblocks is complete sudden collapse.

A good pair of 2 ton self locking jackstands costs about 20 USD