rub rail

[beachdoc]

I have 1998 26x and I'd like to replace rub rail. Is this a tough job and what dimension rub rail should I buy. Thanks Beachdoc

[dvideohd]

there are several mods with pictures...

some of the thinking came back that you might look at the deck to hull joint when you are doing this.. for a 20 - 30 year old boat - it makes a lot of sense.. Also - there is potential water intrusion - and corresponding corrosion - things to look at... That's what I get to look at this week - at the chain plates...

[NiceAft]

Beachdoc,

You may wish to PM John McDonough. If I remember correctly, he has done this. You can go to the members section and look him up.

Ray

[pokerrick1]

If you haven't already done it, do a search on "rub rail" - - - this job CAN be real tough!

Rick

[opie]

Yes, a lot of advice is stored in the archives. I replaced mine. Some observations.
- Do it on a real hot day so that the rub rail will stretch to fit. There will still be a hard pull required at the aft section on each side, but not so hard to do as it would be if the rail was cold. (Maybe someone has experience using a laundry tub of hot water??)
- Read where others put in more SS small bolts and nuts. I recall the nuts were on about 5 inch centers? Some have added more. I did in places where I thought the deck to hull seal needed it. (Check for any movement between the joint. The waterproof seal between the hull and deck is the way water is prevented from coming into the boat.
- The glue does not have to be continuous. In fact I only glued the rail on every 5 inches of so.
- Check for deck to hull fiberglass damage and repair that.
- I used $1.98 tub and shower glue from Lowes (the 12"+ tube that fits in the metal 'gun') It set up in a few days and holds tight. I saw no reason to use 5200 or 4200 stuff, as the glue is to hold the rail in place and not for any waterproofing.) (However, I am a cheap bastxxd and can be foolish sometimes, as proven before.)
- Do not slop goop on the top rub rail to deck joint when you are done. It looks bad and is unnecessary.
- I sanded and gelcoated my two rear fiberglass rub rail covers so that they looked new. The P.O. had put screws into them to hold things together. I did not. Instead I clamped the rail tight until the glue setup and it has held nicely for the past year.

[TAW02]

Mr. Beachdoc;

Saw it being done on YouTube (a 26X)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r4Ib9j47LnY

prettty laid-back flick

Big T

[Ivan Awfulitch]

Not at all a hard job, but very time consuming. You will need the following:
1. Acetone (1 quart) Home Depot
2. Denatured Alcohol (1 quart) Home Depot
3. 2 caulking gun sized tubes of 3M 4200 adhesive/sealant (Defender was very reasonable)
4. 50 foot of rub rail, available from Bluewater Yachts, about $1/foot
5. 2 replacement end caps (in case they chip or break) available from Bluewater Yachts, $5 each
6. 4-6 spring clamps
7. 1 roll 3" wide masking tape (recommend the strong blue 3M)
8. Flexable scraper, about 2 inches wide (a glazing chisel works well too).
9. Scotchbrite pad (green)
10. Solvent resistant gloves
11. Not necessary, but makes forming the bow easier is a heat gun or strong hair dryer.

Wait until you have a warm (60 degrees F or higher) period with lots of sun and no rain. Remove the old rub rail starting at the back. There are 2 or 3 screws under the white fiberglass caps which must first be removed by carefully prying with a screwdriver. If you buy new caps this step is much easier as mine cracked a bit while removing them. Once the screws are out, pull the rub rail from the boat. Use the scraper to remove as much of the old sealant as possible. Using acetone, the scotchbrite pad, and wearing your gloves remove as much of the residue left behind so the surface is as clean as possible. Once this is done, clean the area with the denatured alcohol using with a clean rag. Now, check the bolts that hold the top and bottom together, making sure that none are lose.

You're now ready to install the new rail. Make sure that you set the rail out in the sun for about 30-45 minutes (let it become nice and soft). If at all possible, have the boat somewhere that it will be in the sun the entire time you're installing. Once it's nice and soft, place a mark (with tape or something easily removed) at the center point of the rail. Place the center mark on the tip of the bow, and have someone pull along one side stretching it until it is long enough to reach around the back of the boat. Repeat this on the other side. Remove the strip and set it back in the sun.

Now, get out the 4200. I recommend running a very small bead along the edge where the top and bottom come together then running your finger along it, and around the bottom of the bolts to seal any places where water might leak in. Once you've done this, you're ready to begin installing the rail. Starting at the front, run a bead of 4200 along the top edge (covers the heads of the bolts) extending back about 5 foot on both sides of the boat. You'll know when you've used too much as it will squeeze out. Simply clean it up with the alcohol and a clean rag as you work. Place the center mark over the bow point, then have someone pull as you carefully hook the rail over the boat, laying the top side on and pulling the bottom side down and over the bolts. Once you reach the end of the adhesive, place a spring clamp over the rail and repeat the process on the other side. Do not apply sealant on the bottom side of the rail. Continue this working on 6-8 foot sections until you reach the back of the boat. You will find that by pulling (rather hard) will cause the rail to form fit around the bow, and along the sides. If you have problems getting the bow to form correctly, use a heat gun while pulling the ends. Use tape and clamps to help you get it formed properly. Once to the rear, you should have about 12-18 inches that will need to be cut off if it's stretched properly. If you're satisfied with the fit around the boat, install the screws then cut off the excess. Allow to set overnight, then install the fiberglass caps using the 4200 sealer.

My wife and I finished our boat in about 6 hours over a 2 day period (took about 4 hours to remove and clean). Total cost was under $125. Looks great and the best part is we no longer have any water leaks in the bilge areas.