Bilge Water

[SkiDeep2001]

Hi, I just bought a 98 Mac26X and on the way home I stopped at a local boat launch to reposition boat on trailer. (it was off to one side and not bow up to bow stop). When I got home I noticed water in cabin below stepdown. On further inspection there was water under aft cushions so I pulled those to dry and removed the 4 wooden hatch covers. The bilge was full of water. I had the ballast opening closed when I put in the water to reposition and this was a shallow drop ramp so no water came over stern. I noticed the drain hole to bilge on port side ( 3/4"?) between swim ladder and port rudder. Is this drain hole supposed to have a plug in it? I can't believe the bilge filled up in the short time I had it in the water. Can somebody give me a heads up on what to look for? The hull is in good shape with no obvious holes or cracks so how did I get that much water in bilge?. Thanks, Rob

[bastonjock]

I dont think that the 98x has a drain for the bilge,the hole that i think you are referring to is a drain for the cockpit.

Did you try tasting the water? or at least smell it,it may be rain water.The next thing to try is to dry out the water and then put the boat back in,get your head down in the bilges with a flashlight and a mirror,if water is coming in,then try checking out the base of the compression post,at the base there is a plastic surround held on by sticky tape,from memory,thats where KH east (catgale) had a leak.

[Night Sailor]

Welcome to Mac ownership.
If you boat sat for some time without being used or opened up during the winter, you most likely have either rain or snow water leaked in or accumulated condensation from changes in temperatures.

I suggest the follwoing. With the boat level, so bilge water runs to the areas beneath the galley and dinette aft seat, pump out excess and then mop up all the water. Wait a day and check again for late arriving water from fore or aft parts of the bilge. Maek sure the drain hose connection to the thruhull is tight for the both the galley sink and the head sink.
Next, raise the front of the trailer up as high as the jack will carry it, then remove the ballast tank plug under the main hatch step, and open the ballast tank valve on the transom by pulling handle all the way up. Let all water drain out, if any, over several hours, then close the valve completely,visually inspecting to see there is no obstruction to closing. Make sure the ballast tank vent plug is returned and secure in it's place under the main hatch step.
Now take it to the ramp and launch for several hours. Return the boat to the trailer and adjust so the boat is level.
Now inpsect the bilges again in the galley or dinette aft seat areas, and raise the trailer up and open the transom ballast tank drain valve. If no water appears in either area, it was condensation or rain leaks.

[MadMacX]

Welcome aboard Ski. Night gave you some excellent advice. I would also suggest that you check the openings at the rear of your boat for ways that will allow water to enter. Specifically, the cockpit drain and the steering and cable openings. The cockpit drain (in front of the motor) is connected to the thru-hull next to the ladder with a piece of hose. Make sure that the hose is connected and not plugged. Water can easily wick it's way along the motor cables and into the boat. Make sure the cable boot is not cracked or leaking. One area that you should look at is the chainplate covers. Most like;y you will need to seal those with a good silicone before you put your boat into service. You can find a lot of info about leaks on this site just by using the search function at the top of this page. Try searching on "leak" then sit back and read.

Good Luck
Pat

[Chinook]

After doing the preliminary steps as suggested by Night Sailor, I'm thinking you could test for a leak in the ballast tank right there at home by closing the transom water ballast valve and then adding water into the air release hole inside the cabin, using a garden hose and funnel. It seems pretty unlikely to me that the ballast tank leaks, unless you have a problem with the compression post, like KHeast (Catigale) did. Since you're on the rainy side of the state, you're likely dealing with rainwater. Look at where the chain plates go through the hull. Leaks there frequently result in water entering the bilge. Clear silicon sealant is the recommended product for caulking those seams, and they should be checked annually. Good luck.

[Chinook]

I see MadMacX beat me to the enter button regarding the chain plate/silicon bit. I'm glad to see we're on the same page.

[SkiDeep2001]

Thanks for all the replies. The boat did sit for a year+ and yes we do get mucho H2O here (not as much as some claim)LOL. I will follow up with a thorough dry out and short run. The boat was sitting level prior to purchase and I do have it bow up specifically so I could check bilge levels. I was just kind of surprised it had enough in it to overflow into cabin and in aft sleeping area. Glad there is great support for these craft on this site. I am getting into this after 35 years of power boating with a little bit of sailing knowledge from my high school years. It definitely will involve some work to get up to speed but I want to be able to cruise the San Juan Islands after 55 years in the NW. Thanks Again! PS: The thought crossed my mind to taste the water but it was brown and the previous owner left me with a full head so I thought, Naw, I'll just accept that it's wet and brown. LOL

[Chinook]

Hi SkiDeep, Once you get things all squared away, you should consider coming up to the summer Mac rendezvous which is sponsored annually by Blue Water Yachts (June 25-28). It will be in Port Townsend this year, and it's a great chance to hang out with 50 or more Mac owners. Lots of fun, and great chance to exchange information.

[MadMacX]

If the boat was sitting level prior to your purchase, my guess is chainplates. What happens is the water enters thru the chainplates and get into the bilge, then you start towing the boat and all the water rushes to the back and spills all over the aft berth. Been there done that!! You think the water entered through the back of the boat, but actually it came in elsewhere. If the boat sat for a year, you will want to check the bedded fittings and sealed areas for any dried out caulk. Again, you can read all about the usual suspect areas right here, 'cuz most of us have already been down that path. Once all that is taken care of.......then you can start the MODS!!!

Pat

[waternwaves]

Chinook,

"Clear silicon sealant ..."
I never noticed very much expansion or contraction signs in that location........ Why silicone over 5200??

The silicon has about 1/3 to 1/2 the adhesion strength of polyurethane or 5200........ admittedly less ultraviolet effects.......But I want something that holds to the bolts and the hull.
But have you compared in that location 5200 vs. silicone?? Enquiring minds. Last 2 times (2002, 2007) I used 5200 I considered myself lucky to get 5 seasons out of the seal. Actually even thought about doing the deck joint........ but decided 3 bilge pumps and a sponge was cheaper and easier.

[Chinook]

I haven't done any testing, but when we took delivery of our boat, I was told that the chain plates were prime candidates for water leaking into the bilge. Silicon was recommended over 5200 because, with the stress and movement at that location, cracks and separation can be expected, and it's easier to remove the old silicone and reseal. 5200 is harder to clean out and replace. Annual attention was recommended, and silicon is just easier to work with. On some things I tend to just do as I'm told.

[SkiDeep2001]

RE: Silicone sealant, thanks for tips on bilge water. I used to have an auto glass business and people would use silicone to seal leaks on their glass and it would provide short term seal but made a huge mess. That was 25 years ago and there are so many superior sealants on the market today. I have a motorhome and cabover camper and would never use silicone on any of the roof accessories (A.C. vents, sunroofs, joint seals)or windsheild/side glass. There are many ways to seal a leak but I think you should stay away from silicone.Especially with sun/wind/sea exposure. Just my opinion.

[c130king]

I used clear silicone on my chainplates. Stopped the links perfectly. I give it a check every season. If it looks like it is peeling away or if I see leaks again I will peel the old stuff away (much easier than with 5200 IMHO) and re-apply. And it is cheap.

I used 5200 on my rub rail...talk about a basically messy/sticky substance. But apparently it is very strong bond.

To each their own I guess.

Good Luck,
Jim

[Muschamp]

I had a problem. I think if the ballast vent plug is not good and tight or the fill valve or the rear valve is not fully closed, the boat will take on water as it over flows out the vent or an untight fill valve. Water in the ballast tank may be pressured to over flow as the boat is motored. Once I tighted my fill valve and vent plug I had no more problems.

[SkiDeep2001]

Hey Chinook, I need to amend my comment about not using silicone versus 5200. I spent 4-5 hours last Saturday with Cheryl @ Blue Water Yachts going over my newly purchased 26X and she pointed out the chain lockers to me (stupid me) I thought it was the hatch on bow to hold chain LOL. I saw the drain hole in there and thought that was where bilge water was coming from, not knowing it drained on side of bow. I put a cork plug in it. She told me there is a lot of movement on the chain lockers, mid ship now that I know where they are, and that 5200 will not be pliant enough to not crack with the movement. She did say to use the 5200 for the mounting hardware so I will most likely be checking all the mountings/brackets.Like you I guess I will do as I'm told. LOL Happy Sailing/Motoring