POSSIBLE SAIL WEAR.

[puggsy]

During my last trip, was cruising home with a strong breeze on the starboard [ back] quarter. The DOYLE mainsail was fully up, and due to the strength of the wind, could not be sheeted in too much, otherwise Ol' SEAHORSE would lay over too much. With the mainsheet let off, the sail was hard up against the portside rear shroud. With the possible risk of poking a hole in it.
My sailing mate, with experience in racing, said the design ...with the shrouds so far aft, left a lot to be desired.
I know it is like this to compensate for no backstay.
Even if the main was reefed, the problem would persist...
Should the main have been reefed to its minimum, placing the leech below the spreaders. luff/leech????

I am open to any advice.....Thanks guys...

Puggsy

[craiglaforce]

The other concern is breaking a batten if it lays across the shroud.

[c130king]

Puggsy,

I too have had those same concerns some. My technique is to yank down hard on the boom vang pulling the boom down and "straightening" out the sail somewhat. If I still have to have the sail so far out (to prevent losing control and over heeling) then I reef to the factory reef point (my only reef point).

I find if reefed the problem of spreader rubbing is not so bad.



To be honest, I think you would have to sail a pretty long time that way to really wear on the sail.

Just my $0.02 worth...ymmv.

Cheers,
Jim

[Highlander]

I installed jib roller chafe protectors on the shrouds above the spreaders & spreader end cap boots

J

[NiceAft]

Jim,

Do you have a reefing system which enables you to quickly reef, in those situations?


John,

Do you have any pictures on file that show what you did?


Ray

[puggsy]

Sorry, guys, no pics available...but it seems that reefing is the only sensible answer. I appreciate the input.
What I do have though is a much better quality mainsail , nearly new and much heavier material, off my previous smaller 20ft. yacht. Nicely made and fully battened and designed fro cruising...7 metres by 2 metres, about the same as the DOYLE reefed to its one and only point. The DOYLE being 9 metres by 3 metres.
The next time I'll bung that on. Thanks...Puggsy

[c130king]

Jim,

Do you have a reefing system which enables you to quickly reef, in those situations?

Ray,

I have the jiffy reef system with the line led aft to the cockpit. Pulls the tack down first and then the clew. It has been discussed in other threads how this frequently results in the clew not being down "tight" on the boom. Would the reefed sail be flatter and provide better control if the clew was down "tight" on the boom...yes. But does single line reefing work...yes. If the winds pick-up while I am sailing with full sail then I heave to and reef. Or if the winds are "iffy" from the get go then I only raise to the reef on the initial raising of the sail.

But, I am still planning to convert to a 2-line reefing system...one for the tack and one for the clew...both led aft on the port side (starboard has the dagger board, main halyard, and furling line).

I mostly single-hand, now and in the foreseable future (my wife gets nausea looking at pictures of boats and won't even walk on a floating pier) so I am a strong proponent of having all lines led to the cockpit for ease of single-handing.

Cheers,
Jim

[Highlander]

Ray
I have only have this pic that shows the spreader boot end covers I do not have a pic that shows the jib chafe rollers


Here's a pic of the W/M pge 639 the second item down from the top left chafe protectors
http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee20 ... /06431.jpg
the spreader boots are on pge 638
but you can buy these items at any marine store that sells sailing equip.
J

[Highlander]

Ray
Here you are
these are about 18" above my bottom spreaders
http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee20 ... 0016-1.jpg

http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee20 ... 0017-1.jpg
these are just above my top spreaders
http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee20 ... 010018.jpg

J

[Wind Chime]

Hey J.

I like your idea of using zap-straps to hold the spreader boots, as I am constantly changing the tape the comes off ... but how do you get the zap-strap end cut short enough to not have a little sharp end sticking out that might cut the sail?

p.s.
We have a jiffy-reefing system for our first reef-point that works great. I have a short line that I use to pull the clew down to the boom after it is reefed. This also works as a safety line, in case the cam cleat lets go of the jiffy-line, and tears out the center reef lines.

Darry

[pokerrick1]

To be honest, I think you would have to sail a pretty long time that way to really wear on the sail.

That, IMHO, depends quite a bit upon how much harsh Sun the sail gets when the sail is up as you describe. That harsh Sun really hastens wear

My first three years with my sailing 200+ times a year in the Southern California Sun at Marina Del Rey probably put 10 years of wear on my original Doyle main. Oh well

Rick

[Highlander]

Wind Chime

I just turn the rap ties to the front side of the spreaders boots tighten & cut that way the smooth side of the rap tie is facing the rear " sail side"

Darry Said
We have a jiffy-reefing system for our first reef-point that works great. I have a short line that I use to pull the clew down to the boom after it is reefed. This also works as a safety line, in case the cam cleat lets go of the jiffy-line, and tears out the center reef lines.
Darry. Any Pic's I'm interested in that set-up

Pokerrick 1

Depending on wind direction & force I can easily sail in one direction for 12-to 18 hrs none stop or longer ! that will chaff a sail pretty fast

J

[pokerrick1]

Pokerrick 1

Depending on wind direction & force I can easily sail in one direction for 12-to 18 hrs none stop or longer ! that will chaff a sail pretty fast

J

AGREED!!! I'm too anxious - - - I never SAIL in one direction for more than, like 2 hours

Rick

[as time goes by]

Hi Pugsy, What I have done to solve this problem is to cut 8 inches off each spreader. This required no alteration to the stay length apart from changing the position on the chainplate adjusters. The rig looks much nicer and has not created any strength issues. we have no backstay.
The sail will still touch the spreaders when fully out running before the wind ,but it has relieved that situation when reaching.
Happy sailing from As time goes by in Hobart

[Kelly Hanson East]

Your friend is also calibrated to the world of sails costing 10000 USD or more. Remember a set of sails for the Mac run only a few hundred for the ??Doyle OEM?? or a bit more for some upgraded stuff (shameless plug for us) so you dont have to panic everytime your sail touches the rigging.