Wheel falls off at +80kph Exciting

[kmclemore]

Here's another way you could tell. Loosen the nuts, retighten, then mark the nuts and on the wheels for their angular orientation. Then drive a ways, and check. If I'm right, the nuts will not have turned, but will still require retightening. I'm going to try it on my next trip this Thursday.

Hi, Chip... I'm interested in your results... what did you discover?

[Dimitri-2000X-Tampa]

Well gee whiz guys, after decades of not using the stuff (anti-seize), I only just bought some when I got my new rims last month....thinking I would make a fresh new start with some new gizmo chemical. Now all this doom and gloom talk by our resident mechanical engineers...

I went running down to my boat to check the lugs after driving about 100 miles on them since I put the wheels on..imagine my surprise when every lug nut was still tight. I thought for sure it was going to be a mess of mangled metal, elongated studs, and ripped up rims. Sounds like its time for a new poll

[Chip]

For those of us who like boating but not mechanics or even tools (blasphemy, I know), may I ask who would be a reliable servicer of a Mac trailer? Are there any national chains, for instance, which can be relied upon to properly torque the lug nuts and check for any signs of failing in the studs, rims, nuts, etc.? If the answer is no, will you please explain what the obvious signs of failing are, other than loose nuts? By "obvious," I mean readily observable to the untrained and mechanically-challenged eye. Thanks!

What tool should I carry around for tightening on a longer road trip and how do I know that I have torqued the nuts properly (versus too little or too much)? Thanks again.

Chip Stanton

[Dimitri-2000X-Tampa]

Chip, the lug nuts are 15/16 inch which should be the same as most automobiles and light trucks...ie, your auto lug wrench should handle the job..unless you want to carry a torque wrench around. If you get it about as tight as a normal person can with a regular auto lug wrench, it should end up being pretty close to the torque that you are supposed to have.

As for trailer service places, there are oodles of them in Florida..I think we are the trailer capitol of the world whether its RV's, mobile homes, boats, etc. I did a seach in Yahoo yellow pages (now called Yahoo local) and found 33 places within 10 miles. You will get everything from U-Haul dealers to welding shops. I had some work done by King Trailers (I think they are a national franchise) and they seemed to know what they were doing. As with anything like this, YMMV depending on the local shop owner.

Oh, and to go a bit OT here..everyone knows that it was Florida that determined the last presidential election. But did you also know that it is the I-4 corridor (Tampa to Orlando) that is what determines the Florida vote? It is always one of those states that is too close to call..so, don't forget to vote...(unless you are voting against my candidate of course)

[Chip]

Thanks very much for the info. I won't respond to your political observation because it might open a can of worms.

Chip

[kmclemore]

I don't know.. it's personal choice, of course, but when you can get a reasonable torque wrench for only about $9.00 from Harbor Freight, I guess I have to wonder why wouldn't someone just buy one and do it the right way? Now, granted, I wouldn't use the Harbor Freight wrench to torque the most sensitive of bolts - it's error rate is +/- 4% and that's too high for aircraft work - but as a general service torque wrench for lugs it should do just fine. In fact, it looks like a dead-on copy of a Proto (Stanley) wrench, and they're generally pretty good wrenches.

Overtorquing is the kiss of death on bolts and studs, and no, you usually can't tell by looking at them with your eyes if they've been over stressed.

As my dad used to say, the right tools makes all the difference.

I couldn't find any info on our trailers (does anyone have an owner's manual?), but Eagle Trailers has some information:

When tightening your lug nuts on your trailer wheels, the recommended torque for each lug nut is 90-110 ft/lbs (foot pounds). Tighten your lugs in a criss-cross pattern for best and equal torque distribution. Important: As with all types of wheels it is necessary to re-torque the lug nuts after the first 25 miles and at every 100 mile intervals until the torque remains constant. Failure to do so may lead to the wheel separating from the trailer. Such an incident is not covered by the warranty of your trailer.

And Pace American trailers has:

Be sure to check your lug nuts frequently. During the first 200 miles of towing your new trailer, check them every 50 miles. After the first 200 miles, check them before every trip. Proper torque for tightening lug nuts is between 90 and 120 foot pounds.

And Loadrite Trailers says:

CAUTION - CHECK THE LUG BOLTS ON THE WHEELS FOR PROPER TORQUE (85-95 FT. LBS.).

My best guess is to set them for 95 ft./lbs. and check them like Eagle recommended.

BTW, Loadrite has a very nice tire chart HERE, too.

[Moe]

Agreed. I carry an inexpensive torque wrench, and appropriate sockets, in the truck just for that reason... and because the lug nuts on the Airstream and Whaler trailer aren't the same size as the truck's lug wrench. Neither are the bolts that hold the spare tire on the Mac trailer. You might want to check the sizes on your tow vehicle and trailer.

--
Moe

[Dimitri-2000X-Tampa]

Well...I would bring a torque wrench along..except...

The extra weight would cause me to need a second axle on my trailer!

Shouldn't the torque on the nuts be a function of the size of the lug??

[Tom Root]

OK, I'll chime in here to add a solution which works well around fasteners on Aircraft that I've worked on through the years. They always safety wire critical flight safety items on the airframes! I did have a frightening experience once on the I-5 freeway here in San Diego. My 1976 Venture (Mac) 25 has wheel bolts vice nuts, (similar to older Volkswagens) and after performing routine wheel bearing cleaning & repacking one time, I failed to use a torque wrench to check the lugs bolts and had a near disaster! The wheel actually passed me as I was going down the road, and looking back I saw a an arc of sparks several feet high on the drivers side. The fender was tweaked a bit also, and had to use a fine alignment tool (ye old sledgehammer)to whack it back into somewhat reasonable shape!

Luckily no one was hurt (except my pride ) and the tire went all the way across 5 lanes into the median. The axle U-bolt studs were a few inches shorter and I even found a lug bolt or two. I went to an auto parts store that luckily carried the right size, replaced them, and was merrily on my way again. But what an eye opener, things could have turned out alot worse of course!

Now, back to my solution! In addition to proper torgue, I recommend drilling a tiny hole, just big enough to thread .030 or so safety wire (non-corroding) between all studs approxamately 1/4" or so from the end. It would be better to twist between studs, but will works also by treading all the way around and twisting where the two ends meet. You'd have to carry additional wire if you had a flat etc., but it would be a lot safer. It is best to 'chase' the threads with an appropriate tap and die set of course, but all doable and a definate solution!

Of course since I had done that trick on my other Mac, I never had a problem, I am doing it on this trailor also, along with many, many other things to add to my growing list!!!!

[Jedaro]

I have been amazed by the depth of knowledge displayed by the MacGregor boat owners on this and other threads. I have found out more about issues and plans for sailing than I thought possible.
2 extra points on wheels.

1. I noticed a large "Tim Hortons" supply rig with "small green triangles on each lug of each of the 18 wheels. I was talking to the driver and he said these are life savers that are being purchased for each wheel of each truck and trailor. They are bright and all point with the apex in a circle. This way the driver can always do a quick "walk around" and see problems from a distance of 20+ feet. He said that this has virtually eliminated problems of the transport trucks wheels falling off on the highway. I have inquired but I have not found a place to purchase them. Does anyone have any knowledge of this.

2. Last week I received a "safety communication" from Ford of Canada concerning my Windstar and Explorer. It is about the correct procedure for wheel installation and lug tightening (100ft-lbs) and retightning after 800kn after any wheel service. Obviously this must be a general problem for cars, vans and SUV's, especially as owners are installing snow tires around this time of year.

Mike Purdy
Jedaro