CDI furler rigging

[enufsed]

I have a CDI furler and am about to use it for the first time. What's the most common way to run the sheets back to the cockpit? Do you run them inside or outside the shrouds? A detailed description is appreciated, along with any special tips. And how do people determine where it's best to set block in the jib track?

I bought the Speedy Rigger video and the dude spent, like, an hour sailing around with basic sailing advice, but never showed this sort of crucial detail.

Note to moderator: If this post belongs in a different board, feel free to move it, but I thought I'd post it here as it's a very general question (not related to special racing configurations, etc.)

[bastonjock]

i dont have any diagrams to show you but,if you have a jib on the cdi furler,you take the jib sheets to the blocks on the tracks that are found on the roof of your mac,just in front of the hatchway.

For the genoa,you run the sheets around the shrouds to the tracks that are on the top sides at the stern of the boat

how much sail that you put out is down to experience and wind speed,genoas are for lighter winds but they can be furled in partially depending on wind speed,the jib can take heavier wind speeds

go out in your boat and if its blowing at say 10mph then unfurl your sail,remember to keep a grip on both the furler line and the sheet,dont just let it all out by releasing the furler line,try to ease it out and when furling back,hold the sheet line in order to give you a tighter wrap.

hope this helps

[March]

As a rule, you move the blocks forward to tension the lower part of the leech. You pull them backward to tension the higher section. Look at the shape of your leech. If it is beginning to flap up, pull them back. Experiment with different positions. Tighten the jib or let it billow out. Pull the blocks back or move them forward. See what difference it makes. Aftr a while you will develop a feel for it and you will fly the sails by the seat of your pants.

[cuisto]

Or fly the seat of your pants instad of sails....works well in storm conditions i hear

[Russ]

My standard jib on my M routes the sheets INSIDE the shrouds. I adjust the track as mentioned above. I don't know if it's the same on the X. The genny track is back on the cowling in the cockpit.

[Wind Chime]

There is an old saying that says:

"The great thing about sailing is that; everyone can learn how to sail in a day ... but it takes a lifetime to learn how to sail well".

I think it is fairly easy to just pull up/out the sails and the boat will move. But for me, to learn the "Art of Sail Trim" is the true joy of sailing. Feeling the wind direction on your face, by closing your eyes and turning your head from side to side. Tweeking the sheets in or out 2 or 3 inches to get the tell-tails flying backwards just right. Adjusting the balance between both sails so you can let go of the wheel and keep a straight heading. Now that is sailing to me, and there are lots of good tips on this site for sail trim.

A jib headsail is considered 100%. Meaning the sail roles out to fill the fore-triangle. (the bottom of the triangle is the distance between the the bottom of the mast and the point where the furling drum attaches to the bow). We use a 150% genoa headsail. Meaning the sails foot (bottom) is 50% longer that the distance from the furling drum to the mast bottom.

We run our sheets outside the shrouds and under the metal handrail near the cockpit. I agree with the other comments of block position and how it changes tention etc. although we do not move our blocks to much as the track lenght is very short and you can only get minimal degrees of angle change. Although sometimes it makes all the difference you need to get the sail set just right. Of course at that moment, when time and space come together, and you have everything set just right ... is when the wind changes speed and/or direction

Enjoy the ride!!

[DaveB]

I just relized you were talking about your Furler line...run it inside and 90 degrees to your headstay..Eyes should already be installed.
Now the rest of the story.

If you have a X the Max amout of Headsail you can use is a 110 with full cut (not Yankee) . This allows you to sheet the lines inboard and thus sail closer to windward.
Example:
A 1995 Mac. 26 S with full Main and a Standard Jib and my 1997 Mac X beated to windward in 10 knots gusting to 15 Knots tacking over a lum line of 7 miles ended with the Mac X, 1/2 mile ahead. (the person Sailing the 26 S is a excellent sailer and after the beat commited on the need for a more full cut on his head sail).
The Mac 26 S can usually sail circles around me on diffrent light wind direction but is hard to keep up in wind aft or if the headsail isn't a full cut running the shhet lines inboard.
I was able to point 10 degrees higher to the wind because of the max. sail you can use on a Mac.X and still be inside the Standing Rigging.
Dave[/list]

[bastonjock]

i was experimenting with the jib yesterday,daves comments about the 110% jib have me wondering.

dave do you think that the 110% jib negates the need for a 150 genoa? on an x.

i cant make my mind up about my head sails,i was going to buy a genny and an aspin,but i shredded my jib yesterday,it was mac,s standard doyle and the sail was 7 years old,i guess sailing gull winged and some hard tacking was enough to finished off the old jib

so with your years of experience,what sail warddrobe do you have for your 26x?

[DaveB]

I have no need for a 150 Genoa as I want to sail as close to the wind as possible in many restricted places I sail. In the Summer we get little wind but usually pick up the on shore wind early afternoon in the Gulf. Thunderstorms are almost every day in afternoon and usually packs 25-30 knot winds and I want to furl in fast. Fall,Winter and Springs I usually sail in 12-15 knots of wind that is perfect for the 110 without reefing.
I bought the Mac.X in Jan. and doing a lot of upgrades and Mods and tho the Main appears to have a little blown belly it still performs well and stitching is ok. I would perfer a full batten main but the roach would have to clear the backstay.
Winds under 4 knots I would just power as speed at 2 knots doesn't interest me. I would highly recommend a window for the full cut 110. As I stated I can sail much closer to windward with the 110 than Genoa that you need to run your sheets outside the rigging.
Off the wind the 150 Genoa would be great but I also pole out my 110 down wind. The 150 also would loose the sail shape faster than a 110 when you have to reduce sail on the furler and has more windage aloft.
It really all depends on the wind in your area and how much you like to get the rail down (I don't).
Dave

i was experimenting with the jib yesterday,daves comments about the 110% jib have me wondering.

dave do you think that the 110% jib negates the need for a 150 genoa? on an x.

i cant make my mind up about my head sails,i was going to buy a genny and an aspin,but i shredded my jib yesterday,it was mac,s standard doyle and the sail was 7 years old,i guess sailing gull winged and some hard tacking was enough to finished off the old jib

so with your years of experience,what sail warddrobe do you have for your 26x?