You can probably get away with removing 3/4 of them or so, but I'm not sure that's the way to go. I removed mine to adhere a strip of Velcro loop fabric to the underside of the hatch guides. This is a common mod for the hatch to make it glide easier and prevent the wearing away of gelcoat in the ha...

I have to remove the main sliding hatch to do some repairs. I screwed up and lowered the mast with the hatch slid forward. I didnt realize soon enough why the mast would not come down all the way. Two cracks one right in the center under the mast one at the corner. I want to remove it so I can put ...

I have to remove the main sliding hatch to do some repairs. I screwed up and lowered the mast with the hatch slid forward. I didnt realize soon enough why the mast would not come down all the way. Two cracks one right in the center under the mast one at the corner. I want to remove it so I can put f...

I did that for our X a number of years ago. Makes it much easier to get in and out of the dinghy. Also provides a handy place to strap on extra plastic jerry gas cans. One thing to be careful of, a lesson I learned the hard way. On our Loop trip I managed to chafe through the electrical umbilical t...

Highlander wrote:Lots of guy,s with have done that mod look in the MODS Section their should b posts & pic,s of it there

J

Thank you I found the posts great help

I am looking to use the new jib with a CDI FF2 rolling fuller. Make sure the new sail is configured with a bolt rope sized to fit the FF2. Will that work? Does loosening the back stay provide enough slack to easily attach the forestay? No, I'm afraid that won't work. The side stays counter the long...

I would like to put in a platform on the stern deck behind the ridge at the stern end of the cockpit deck. I want it to cover the fuel line and steering linkage. This would make a nice clear are to use to step on or get up into boat. You wouldn't have to worry about stepping on things you shouldn't ...

These are the low-lead blocks I have for the jib. There are no springs or elastomers to hold it upright, or from flopping inward. http://i67.tinypic.com/i2935h.jpg Yup these are what I have. I think the stand up blocks are in my future. If I could modify them easily to limit their inward range of m...

Thanks for input on puffs pads. Now I have another question. I am looking to use the new jib with a CDI FF2 rolling fuller. I want to use a Johnson quick realse adjustable stay tensioner. But I wonder if I could put that on the back stay in stead of below the jib on the forestry. The the sail will r...

Tomfoolery wrote:
These are the low-lead blocks I have for the jib. There are no springs or elastomers to hold it upright, or from flopping inward.

Yup these are what I have. I think the stand up blocks are in my future.

ok im set to get a new head sail. if i go the 150 route and just decide what kind of wind day it will be i can switch the car from the gunwale to the cabin roof. so NOW my question is about reef padding for the Genoa. does it work well, is it gong to weight the sail down too much in light air. what ...

on my 26x there is the track on the cabin roof for the jib sheet. the hardware that is there is a hinged pulley on car. not a pulley on a spring on car that can pivot in any direction, but one the is a hinge like a door. It only pivots side to side. my question is what do you use for that track to g...

I'm thinking with all the talk about the size and extra effort and hardware to use a 150 I might go with a furling 135 or 125 what ever is the next size down. Then I get th extra sail but with much less tacking effort and hardware. I cruise mostly and like it simple, mostly low wind 6-12knts but I'...

After more thought, maybe you could hinge the table so that the hull side folds up against the hull and the support leg side sits down in the "berth" grooves....but maybe that's what you were saying all along. Sorry, silly me, shutting up now... :? Pretty close to what I was thinking. I p...

In looking at this I got the bug for more room. Here's what I am planning. Using existing equipment with almost no purchases. Take the existing table top and cut it in half on a line bow to stern. Put hinges on the underside counter sunk so the surfaces will be flush when the table is folded in two....