While a lot of these posts have some good info in them, they don't address the OP's problem. If you can't get up to the proper RPM as listed in the engine specs, you have too much prop. If you're constantly red-lining the engine, you have too little prop. Prop selection guides (posted by prop manufa...

I have since used Tomfoolery's method of disconnecting the forestay from the hound and lashing the whole length to the mast. Although I replaced the nut & bolt on the hound with a clevis pin & ring-ding.

Not a marina, but a dry boat yard. Olson & Durand Marine Service, 13720 Dabney Rd, Woodbridge, VA 703-490-9711. Never used them for engine work, but have been very pleased with everything else they've done for me.

Doug

What's the condition of your rub rail? That was a major source of leaking water on my 2000 X, before I resealed the joint and replaced the worn rail.

Going back to mastreb's comments on Mac tacking, I did find that one day last year in fairly light winds I had my Mac stall in a tack just before crossing into the wind. Since the conditions seemed right to evaluate this phenomena, I decided to play with it a bit. What I found was that even though t...

After sailing the boat for a season, I started considering what was still in need of improvement. The first thing to come to mind was improved reefing. My mate and I went out once in pretty heavy winds (18kts with gusts to 24kts), this needed to have the sails reefed & furled which we did at the...

Concur that the screwed down panels cover floatation, but if the boat's been sitting for years they may also be another source of some of the foul smell. When I restored my 2000X, I opened them up and liberally sprayed a bleach solution over/between the foam pieces. Then rinced well. That killed the...

I can only add that a roofers nail pouch or something similar on a belt while you're raising and lowering the mast to keep all of the bits and bungees is very helpful. http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/145/67/67cbad5b-f9fb-470d-b490-97e4ba3ffd49_145.jpg I replaced all rigging nuts &...

Just for you yukonbob, I'd recommend a port & starboard pair of these:


You'll have to add your own color coding though.

I think I paid less than ten bucks or mine form West marine or somewhere else and it goes to 45-50 degrees cause its bound to happen, intentionally or unintentionally Understood, but not what I'm primarily interested in. If it goes that far, you can be sure that the inclinometer will not be what I'...

DaveC426913 wrote:Is that photo an example? It's not the prototype, right? Because the markings don't match the specs.

Correct. The photo is the stock model, without the custom markings.

Hey guys, I've gotten a quote to have some Inclinometers custom made for use on Macs. http://www.riekerinc.com/M-Inclinometer/images/2064EGM-SPL-A-2.jpg Here are the specs: Inclinometer: AXIS: single; DEGREE RANGE: ±26º in 2º increments; CASE: Welded Polycarbonate; MARKINGS: white on black backgroun...

On my , I mounted the external GPS antenna with a rail mount to the aft of one of the rear cockpit rails (behind where the bimini folds). The antenna cable was run through a clam shell near the top of the gunnel, fed up through the pedistal, and out another clam shell.

Doug (DHK79)

When I re-wired my masthead light, I used the following PERKO flush mounted plug since I could tell the old one had been kicked often by the PO. http://www.westmarine.com/buy/perko--watertight-deck-connections--P009_275_007_008 http://newcontent.westmarine.com/content/images/catalog/full/281352.jpg ...

It's important to note that I was talking about 55 degrees to true wind, which at 5 knots is around 35 degrees to apparent wind. So I think we're probably talking about the same thing. Very close, the math just adds up. If you are moving along at 5 knots and you have an apparent wind of 35 degrees ...